Bean throwing at the Heian Shrine
Setsubun in Kyoto lasts from Feb 2-4, though Feb 3 is the main day. It’s a syncretic festival, and below is a list of temples and shrines where activities take place, taken from Kyoto Visitor (photos are my own). Not mentioned are the events at Shimogamo, Kamigamo and Matsuo Shrines, also the temples of Mibu dera and Shogo-in which have spectacular fire ceremonies conducted by yamabushi mountain ascetics. Those of us who live here are spoilt – spoilt for choice!
For Setsubun description and customs, click here.
For the use of beans to drive out demons, click here.
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One of the most popular Setsubun celebrations is mame maki (bean throwing) in which people throw roasted soy beans throughout their home, shouting ”oni wa soto” (demons out) and ”fuku wa uchi’‘ (fortune in). These beans are called fuku mame (fortune beans). It is believed that people will be healthy and happy if they pick up and eat the number of fuku mame equivalent to their age. Eating fortune sushi rolls is another Setsubun custom. The direction to face while eating your sushi roll this year is South-southeast.
Priests and maiko at Yasaka Jinja after the bean-throwing
Feb. 2 & 3: Yasaka Shrine
A ceremony starts from 9:00 including auspicious soy bean scattering, sweet Japanese sake service, and an amulet offering; maiko from all of Kyoto’s ‘flower districts’ will visit the shrine and scatter beans (dance dedication from 13:00 & 15:00); Access: Kyoto City Bus #206, get off at Gion; Tel: 075-561-6155; web.kyoto-inet.or.jp/org/yasaka/
Purifying fire festivals are common, with prayers wafted up to the heavens carried on the smoke
Feb. 2-4: Yoshida Shrine
The largest Setsubun festival in the city; People come to burn old amulets, papers and other personal possessions in a huge bonfire; Many food and fun stalls line the approach to the shrine and are open until very late; Setsubun ritual from 18:00 on the 2nd; Access: Kyoto City Bus #206, get off at Kyodai Seimon-mae; Tel: 075-771-3788; www5.ocn.ne.jp/~yosida/
Feb. 3: Heian Shrine
From 12:00, Kyogen comic plays will be performed here; The festival starts from 13:00; Aspicious bean scattering from 15:00; Free sweet sake will be served throughout the day; Access: Kyoto City Bus #5, get off at Kyoto Kaikan Bijutsukan-mae; Tel: 075-761-0221; www.heianjingu.or.jp/
Feb. 3: Rozan-ji Temple
This temple is well-known for its Setsubun Oni Odori (demon dance: from 15:00); Bean scattering from 16:00 and old amulet burning from 17:00; Access: Kyoto City Bus #205, get off at Furitsu Idai Byoin-mae; Tel: 075-231-0355; www7a.biglobe.ne.jp/~rozanji/
A demon at Rozan-ji surveying the crowd arrayed before him
Bean throwing at Shimogamo Jinja - complete with cartoon character
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For a detailed account of Setsubun at Heian Jingu, see this illustrated post on the Kyoto and Nara Dreams blog.
Marvelous, informative post, great photos. It is so good to have these events come alive through your blog. I am just beginning to understand the flow of the seasons and the profound celebratory connections to each. Interesting to see the cartoon character pictured. Particularly helpful to find the “why throw beans”. Thanks.
Yes, thank you for the excellent information on Setsubun and the clear explanations.
In addition to the shrines you listed, Tsubaki America will be hosting a Setsubun event in Grainte Falls, Washington tomorrow morning. I’m sure they’ll have pictures by this time tomorrow night. They have the beans, and the demons, and the ceremony, much as you’ve described here. They did their purification in fire ceremony a couple of weeks ago, though.
Tsubaki America is the closest shrine to me – and not close enough that I’ll make this event. I’ll just have to appreciate what you’ve shared here, and look forward to their Facebook posts tomorrow. =)