Ise renewal

One of the newly built structures, a loghouse rice granary, similar in style to the main shrine building

Visiting Ise in the year after the shikinen sengu cycle of renewal is supposed to be particularly auspicious.  The timing of the international meeting this week on conservation held by Jingu Honcho and ARC (Alliance of Religions and Conservation) was thus deliberate and part of the congratulatory celebrations of a successful outcome to last year’s rebuilding of the shrine.

Even the white rooster, loyal servant of the Sun Goddess, looks pure and fresh

There have been doubts in postwar years as to the viability of the enormously expensive operation, in which some 10,000 cypress trees are cut down.  There have been questions too about the sustainability.  In addition, the craftsmen needed to make the thousands of offerings are increasingly hard to find.

However, with the attendance last autumn of prime minister Abe and his cabinet at the cycle’s climax when Amaterasu’s mirror was moved to its new shrine, there has come a renewed focus on the centrality of Ise to the nation.  Now there is a feeling that continuation of the ancient tradition is secured.

Walking around the shrine, there is a sense of new beginnings.  ‘You will feel refreshed,’ said the head priest, and it certainly felt as if there was a life-giving fragrance in the air.  The pristine wood of bridge and shrine was smooth to the touch and a fine example of the perfection of Japanese craftsmanship.

To my surprise, on wandering over the newly restored bridge I found, however, that one of the many subshrines (125 in all) had not yet been rebuilt, for next to it was a covered construction site for the new shrine.  How come?  As I pondered the matter, a helpful guard came out and told me that the rebuilding started from the central shrine buildings and worked downwards and outwards.  In fact, the rebuilding of small shrines will go on until next year. The focus, however, is very much on the removal of the ‘body spirit’ (goshintai) of Amaterasu omikami to her new home.  With the rehousing of the Sun Goddess comes renewal of the nation at large.

A newly built bridge to transport one into a refreshing world of nature and renewal...

... yet on the far side is a shrine whose replacement is clearly still under construction, though the shikinen sengu cycle is said to have been completed.