In the Japan Times today Stephen Mansfield writes of Matsue and its connections with Lafcadio Hearn (a writer featured previously on Green Shinto here and here).
Matsue is in the charming prefecture of Shimane, one of Japan’s best-kept secrets. Anyone wanting to get away from the tourist trail would do well to head for this area, and for the prime Shinto shrine of Izumo Taisha. Such is its prestige that the kami of all Japan gather there each year in the autumn (click here for a report).
The reputation of Izumo Taisha as Japan’s premier place of enmusubi (good relations) derives partly from the networking that goes on at the meeting of kami, and partly from the love-match of its deity, Okuninushi no mikoto with the daughter of Susanoo, Princess Suseri. The shrine’s reputation has had an enormous boost recently due to the engagement of an imperial princess with the heir to its ancient priestly lineage (see here).
The Izumo boom was reflected in a television programme last night in which Nishikawa Ayako, a divorced doctor, made a ‘pilgrimage’ to the shrine to seek good fortune in her hunt for a new partner. Below you can see what happened…
Nishikawa boards a special enmusubi train for Izumo, the seats of which are covered in heart marks
The divorcee arrives at the station for Izumo Taisha
On the way to the shrine she stops at one of the stalls to enjoy a special 'enmusubi sweet'
As she arrives at the shrine, it starts to rain – a bad sign perhaps
Even in the rain the enormous thick knots of the shimenawa rice rope stand out. The buildings still have a fresh feel after the 60 year cycle of renewal was completed last year.
A close up of the rope, aesthetically pleasing as well as impressive in dimensions – 13.5 meters in length and weighing 4.5 tons
Nishikawa pays respects to Okuninushi, the Great Land Master who is the putative founder of Izumo Province (tradition says the shrine stands on the site of his palace).
At the shrine Nishikawa runs into an engaged couple who met near the shrine and have come to give thanks and pose for photos
Now comes the big moment as Nishikawa discovers with trepidation what her fortune says - 'I'm afraid... my heart is beating fast', she says.
A smile comes to Nishikawa's face as the fortune slip turns out to be relatively good - after some difficulty she will be able to meet a person whom she likes.
Much relieved, Nishikawa goes off to explore some of the natural sites in the area associated with folklore and then to overnight in a hot spring resort. Typically for contemporary Japan, the trip has centred around enjoyment and a spiritual 'power spot'.
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