Fushimi Inari’s magnificent entrance gate lit up for the festival
It’s at times like this that one understands why Kyoto has been voted the most popular destination on earth by readers of Time Inc’s Travel and Leisure Magazine. We’re in the midst of the Gion Festival, between the first parade and the ‘after parade’ on the 24th. The Shimogamo week-long Mitarashi Festival has just begun. And this holiday weekend sees too the huge Fushimi Inari Motomiya Festival, when worshippers from across Japan descend on the shrine.
Fox masks are a theme of the festival, in honour of Inari’s guardian animal
For two days the shrine is absolutely packed with visitors, with the highlight coming on Sunday evening when the approach and buildings have special illuminations and are lit up by lanterns. It’s a very special event at this very special shrine, which in the world’s no I city has recently overtaken Kiyomizu Temple as Kyoto’s no. 1 tourist destination.
One of the main attractions are the hand-painted lanterns, which make the approach an artistic and aesthetic experience (as well as a frantically jostling and crowded one). The ones on the outer fringes are clearly done by elementary school students, but as one approaches closer to the Worship Hall the paintings grow in sophistication. Some in the inner compound are almost breathtaking and clearly worthy of being presented for the enjoyment of the kami.
As in the very best of Shinto, this is a festival of the people which mixes enjoyment and light-heartedness with spirituality. There’s no sign here of the rightwing nationalism that the Abe administration is seeking to impose on the country at large, and it’s a reminder that Inari is not a member of Jinja Honcho.
The festival is very much this-world focussed, with the kami seen as a living presence and fox-masks in abundance. The predominant feeling is of gratitude. Gratitude for the gift of life. Gratitude that such a place as Fushimi Inari exists. Gratitude for such a wonderful festival. Gratitude for living in Kyoto.
Even amidst the excitement and illumination the guardian fox keeps tight hold of the granary key
Jostling crowds squeeze past the stalls on the narrow approach road
At festivals participants get to have as much fun as the kami
Animals are nearer to the divine, they say…
Even the shrine’s white horse seemed in a good mood…
The shrine office did good business too.
Some of the artwork around the stage was impressive
There were all kinds of subjects and styles
There was traditional dancing too…
… and people left with warm hearts and happy memories for another year of Inari providence
John, I first attended this matsuri when the sumo basho was playing on the television at the restaurant we stopped at before proceeding to the shrine – it was quite the feeling to watch the sun go down and see the lanterns come up, then to walk up the mountain paths and hear the sounds of the Bon-Odori and revelers in the distance. One of the best-feeling matsuri I have been to!
Yes, quite agree about the general good feeling. Everyone seemed in a very good mood, despite the crowds… this year too the sumo was on again, with the final day coming on the 26th. Hakuho is going strong as always…
Kyoto is first, I can understand that westerners are voting for the Western Capital. But what happened to Vedi Napoli, e poi muori ! x)
Perhaps Kyoto is the Far Eastern Napoli…