The journey from Tsuruoka to Niigata was delightful, at least on the stretch to Murakami, with views of rocky headlands, small islands, and inlets where the incoming sea has carved bites out of the landmass. Here and there were fields … Read the rest
There was a scorching September sun when I arrived, but volunteer guide Tsukakoshi Takayuki whisked me into his air-conditioned truck and away we sped. Raised in Tokyo, his Sado-born mother had taken him to the island for summer holidays. After … Read the rest
Sanzan means three mountains, in this case referring to Mt Haguro (414 m / 1360 ft), Mt Gassan (1984m / 6509 ft) and Mt Yudono (1504m / 4934ft ). The three sacred mountains in Yamagata Prefecture are said to represent … Read the rest
Imagine a grotesque red face, straggling thick hair, pointed horns and a creature enveloped in straw which hangs down to the waist. Straw armbands and straw sandals complete the clothing, and in its hand is a staff. Pierced cheeks and … Read the rest
When Isabella Bird arrived in Aomori in 1878, she was far from pleased with the town, calling it ‘a miserable looking place, a town of grey houses, grey roofs, and grey stones on roofs, built … Read the rest
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