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World Heritage book (shrine numbers)

Today is the official release date of my latest publication, Japan’s World Heritage Sites.  It’s a large-format, richly illustrated book with over 150 of my own photos together with some gorgeous selections from photo libraries.  It involved travelling the length of Japan, from Shiretoko Peninsula in Hokkaido down to the Ryukyu ruins of Okinawa and the isolated islands of Ogasawara.

The famous torii of Itsukushima, Japan’s prime shrine in World Heritage terms

Along the way I learnt a lot about World Heritage sites, and I also discovered that there were far more Shinto shrines listed than anyone appeared to know about.  This has to do with the curious nature of World Heritage designations.  Take Kyoto for instance, which is officially recorded with Unesco as ‘Historic Monuments of Ancient Kyoto (Kyoto, Uji and Otsu Cities)’.  Within that single World Heritage site are 17 different properties, including 13 Buddhist temples, 3 Shinto shrines and 1 castle.

Take Fuji as another example.  Most people presume that it’s simply the mountain that is listed as a World Heritage site.  However, as well as the summit, there are 24 other listed properties, including no fewer than 8 shrines.

Now here’s the curious thing: each of the components in a Unesco designation seem able to call themselves a World Heritage site.  it’s a source of confusion, which is compounded in the case of Kii Peninsula where things get even more complicated.  The designation covers three separate regions – Kumano, Mt Koya and Yoshino-Omine – and each of the regions has listed properties including long-distance pathways.  And along the pathways there are a number of listed items, which might be something as simple as a wayside shrine.  Technically these are part of the larger World Heritage site, though in practice placards often declare them to be a World Heritage site.

Roof detail of Kamigamo Shrine in Kyoto

To celebrate publication of my book, I’ve therefore decided to compile a listing of World Heritage registered shrines, showing their status within the Unesco sites.  As far as I know, this is the first comprehensive listing of its kind – the ranking is my own idea.

The list begins with the only shrine to be registered as a World Heritage site in its own right – Itsukushima Jinja – which must surely stand in a rank of its own.  There then follow independent shrines that are part of a larger site.  After that come shrines that are part of an area within a larger site.  Finally there are a number of unmanned shrines within temple complexes which are listed as part of the Unesco registration.  I’m still uncertain about the names and number of these; further research needs to be done!!

Total: 30 World Heritage independent shrines (plus several temple shrines as yet unnamed)

First rank (2 shrines)
Itsukushima Jinja

Munakata Taisha (Okinoshima)

Second rank (16 shines)
Fujisan Hongu Sengen Taisha, Yamamiya Sengen Jinja, Murayama Sengen Jinja, Suyama Sengen Jinja, Fuji Sengen Jinja, Kitaguchi Hongu, Fuji Sengen Jinja, Fuji Omuro Sengen Jinja (all part of the Fuji World Heritage Site)

Futarasan Jinja and Tosho-gu (part of the Nikko World Heritage Site)

Kamigamo Jinja, Shimogamo Jinja, Ujigami Jinja  (part of the Ancient Kyoto World Heritage Site)

Kasuga Taisha (part of the Ancient Nara World Heritage Site)

Seifa Utaki (Ryukyu shrine, part of the Okinawa World Heritage Site)

Nachi waterfall that is the revered object of worship at Nachi Taisha


Third rank (11 shrines)

Kumano Nachi Taisha, Kumano Hongu Taisha, Kumano Hayatama Shrines, Asuka Shrine (part of the Kumano area in the Kii Peninsula site)

Yoshimizu Shrine, Yoshino Mikumari Shrine, Kinpu Shrine, Tamaki Shrine (part of the Yoshino-Omine area in the Kii Peninsula site)

Niukanshofu Jinja and Niutsuhime Shrine (part of Mt Koya in the Kii Peninsula site)

Jisshu-in (part of the Kiyomizu complex in the Ancient Kyoto site)

Ebisu Jinja (disused: part of Okidomari Port in the Iwami Ginzan site)

Fourth rank (shrines within Buddhist temples)

Kusho Myojin Jinja (listed part of Ninna-ji in the Ancient Kyoto site)

Benten Shrine (listed part of Daigo-ji in the Ancient Kyoto site)

Shrines listed as part of Enryaku-ji in the Ancient Kyoto site

Shrine listed as part of To-ji in the Ancient Kyoto site

Niutsuhime Shrine, part of Koyasan in the Kii Peninsula World Heritage site

The Benten Shrine that is an integral part of the Shingon temple of Daigo-ji

Fujisan Hongu Sengen Taisha, a vital part of the Fuji World Heritage Site

The dazzling frontage of Kumano Hayatama, part of the Kii Peninsula site

Summer festivals

Aomori Nebuta Festival

 

(courtesy japanguide)

 

Japan Today JUN. 29, 2014    By Mariko Sugimura

Since ancient times, Japan has had countless numbers of summer festivals which incorporate local traditional culture and customs. Here are some interesting festivals from around Japan.

Aomori Nebuta Festival

In the festival, 22 large “nebuta” floats featuring big lanterns and pictures of samurai parade along the street for about 3 kilometers. It often takes about three months to create a float. The year, the festival will be held Aug 2-7 in Aomori city

Akita Kanto Festival

Kanto Festival is one of the three big Tohoku festivals. The festival is held to ward off bad luck and mid-summer heat. The Kanto Festival originates from the Neburi Nagashi festival (Washing away sleepiness) which was already a tradition of Akita in the Horeki period (1751-64). It gradually changed to today’s format in which male performers balance huge bamboo poles of lanterns (kanto) that weigh 50 kilograms and are 12 meters tall on different parts of their bodies.” This year, the festival will be held Aug 3-6 in Akita city.

The Iwate Sansa Odori festival in Morioka (courtesy Japanismo)

Iwate Sansa Odori Dance Festival

The Sansa Odori Dance Festival is the world’s largest taiko drum parades. Local people dance and chant “Sansa! Sansa!” to chase away demons. The “Mitsuishi Legend” is said to be the origin of the festival. In ancient times, the demon Rasetsu threatened local people who people prayed to Mitsuishi Kami, a god, for help. Mitsuishi Kami caught Rasetsu and made him promise to never threaten people again by putting his hand print on the rock of Mitsuishi Shrine. This year, the festival will be held Aug 1-4 in Morioka city, Iwate Prefecture from 6 p.m. to 9 p.m.

GION Festival
 Kyoto
One of the most famous festivals in Japan, it will be held July 1-31 in Yasaka shrine, Kyoto. This event was originally held to appease the gods and avert disasters such as floods, earthquakes and disease. This festival has been held every year since 970.

Hakata
The Hakata Gion Yamakasa Festival has many stories about its origin, but the most common one is that it started in 1241, when an epidemic occurred and people sprinkled water as a cure. As with Kyoto, the event goes for the whole of July. 
Narita― The Narita Gion Festival has a 300-year history, and is also held to pray for good luck and no disasters. Narita city will bustle with gorgeous floats and food wagons. The event will held July 5-7 in Narita city, Chiba.

The Tokushima Awa Odori festival

Hiroshima Kangen Festival
The Kangen Festival is held in the World Heritage Itsukushima Shrine on Miyajima Island. This festival originated from an aristocratic event in the Heian era to perform music on boats to comfort the gods. This event will held on the evening of July 13.

Tokushima Awa-Odori Festival


With over 400 years of history, Awa-Odori is one of Japan’s most renowned festivals and one of the three big Bon Odori festivals. Over 1.5 million people visit from outside of Tokushima. The origin of this festival is vague, but it is said that after Tokushima Castle was constructed, people celebrated the accomplishment with dancing. During the Edo era, Awa-Odori was banned by Bakufu, because it was viewed as a peasant uprising. This year, the festival will be held Aug 12-15 in Tokushima city.

Kumamoto Hinokuni Festival

First held in 1978, over 5,000 people dance along a street in Kumamoto city to a famous Kumamoto folk song, “Otemoyan,” named after a woman. This year it will be held Aug 1-2.

The Zento Eisa Festival in Okinawa (Ryukyu Shimpo)

Okinawa Eisa Festivals

Celebrating Okinawan music, dance and culture, the Eisa Festival has a long history, But according to Wikipedia, its modern origins date back to postwar Okinawa. In 1956, then under U.S. military occupation, the first Zento Eisa Contest was held in Koza (part of modern-day Okinawa city. It was originally an effort to recover from great damage to the base-dependent commercial city caused by the “Off Limits” ordinance of the U.S. military. As a contest, participating groups were judged by screening criteria such as costumes, formation, technique, the number of performers and innovation. The event will be Aug 15-17 this year in Okinawa-shi, Okinawa.

 

Children holding good luck charms sold at Kyoto's Gion Matsuri

 

Decorated fans on display at the Gion Festival in the days before the big parade

 

East meets West: one of the tapestries that adorn the floats at the Gion Festival, with a section imported to Japan by rich traders during the Warring States Period inserted in-between two oriental dragons.

Rock power

Praying to a sacred rock at Tenkawa Jinja

 

Westerners are often drawn to the animist side of Shinto, and for those of us who look to the past before the religion was made into an emperor-centred ideology, one of the salient characteristics of early Japan is rock worship.  Sacred rocks can be found across the country, and they often form the spiritual heart of ancient shrines.  Some indeed are the spirit-body of the kami.  Others are held by legend to be the place where a kami descended, or to have formed the original site of worship at the shrine.

Despite the centrality of rocks to early Shinto, very little is written about them and few pay them much attention.  In my experience even the priests know very little about them, since the shamanic powers with which they were once invested have waned over time.  Priests nowadays are ritualists, far removed from the shamans of former times.  Indeed, I’ve sometimes found embarrassment about the subject, as if it’s a relic from a primitive past.

Green Shinto readers will be familiar with some of the earlier postings about the nature of rock worship that have appeared here.  (See the category for Rocks to the right.)  One of the most fruitful areas of investigation into the subject is in the shamanic tradition of other countries – in Korea for instance rock worship is very much still a living practice.  The article below from the magazine Sacred Drum looks further afield, to Andean shamanism which treasures the energy and spirit connections of rocks.  Given the strong shamanic tradition of early Japan, evident in the likes of Himiko and other female shamans, one can presume that the sacred rocks of old must have been invested with similar sentiments.

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Deborah Bryon, Ph.D. is a licensed psychologist and Jungian Analyst. She completed her undergraduate degree in psychology at UCLA in 1976, and a master’s degree in clinical psychology in 1979. For the last several years she has received in-depth training with Q-ero shamans in Peru.  She is the author of ‘Lessons of the Inca Shamans: Piercing the Veil’.

WITH THE LOVE OF STONES
The Mesa Medicine Bundles of Andean Medicine People

by Deborah Bryon

For Andean medicine people, shamanism is the practice of connection in service of their community, and Pachamama (Mother Earth).  Everything in nature is living and works together, a relationship they refer to as ayni.

An Andean shaman's 'mesa' collection of sacred stones (courtesy Billie Dean)

P’aqos [shamans] feed their connection with Pachamama in rituals and ceremony, in a practice that involves working with a mesa, or medicine body. The actual mesa is a collection of stones, individually found in nature, that the p’aqo feels an energetic affinity towards.

A p’aqo’s mesa has multiple functions. Through them, p’aqos become anchored to the earth and increase their capacity to hold energy in healing and communication with the mountain spirits.  The mesa also serves as an intermediary gateway to the spirit world. A mesa‘s power is a function of the strength of the p’aqo’s energetic connection with Pachamama.

If a stone is suitable for a p’aqo’s mesa, the p’aqo will detect an energetic vibration that resonates with their energy body when they hold the stone in their hand or against their solar plexus. The stone may not look particularly unusual, but the p’aqo will intuitively sense a ‘pull’ to the stone that feels ‘right.’ Stones that become part of a mesa then become referred to as q’uiyas.

Sometimes a q’uiya chooses us. Q’uiyas can appear suddenly in our path. They can also disappear from our mesas when our work together is complete, and it is time for us to say goodbye.

Building a mesa is an act of love, and q’uiyas – like mates – should be chosen very carefully. It is important that the stone not be missing limbs, not chipped and with no missing pieces. Like the human form, it helps if the shape or aesthetic form of a q’uiya is unified and complete. Q’uiyas must be capable of holding energy – as well as information.

When a p’aqo decides to bring a new stone into a mesa, they set the intention to weave the q’uiya into their energy body. An energetic exchange is established between the q’uiya and the p’aqo through connecting with it in the three major energy centers located in the belly, heart, and mind.  A p’aqo can begin to develop this connection by observing what they are experiencing in their energy centers, starting with the belly, and visualising the energy center expanding with light and energy.

Peruvian shaman (courtesy Nichola Fiorito)

Once the energy center has been opened, the p’aqo visualises the energy moving in a figure of eight pattern between the q’uiya and the energy center in the belly. Once the energy connection in the belly is made, the p’aqo repeats this process by placing the stone over the heart center, and then again touching the energy center of the mind located in the forehead.

Over time this practice comes to be automatic and a p’aqo will be able to sense a connection almost immediately.

When a stone becomes a q’uiya, it becomes a sacred object. A q’uiya stone is a living being that is a member of the p’aqo’s medicine body. The sacred stones are energetically blended together to form a rich tapestry connecting the energy body to Pachamama, and the spirit world.

Bringing a new q’uiya into a mesa is similar to bringing a new member into a family. Everyone must get along and work together. Each q’uiya has its own location in an open mesa, similar to each member of a family having a seat at the dinner table.

Mesas stones usually evolve organically into a specific formation as unique energetic affinities between stones emerge. Individual q’uiyas have a unique energetic vibration that resonates at a certain frequency, depending on their natural qualities. This dynamic relationship between q’uiya stones develops either as a union of opposites balancing masculine and feminine energy (yanantin), or through an alignment of similar energy.

Energetically, a balanced mesa is similar to a well-tuned orchestra. The energetic expression of the q’uiyas combined creates a symphony of power and wholeness.

Mesas can provide us with deep wisdom if we take the time to listen. A q’uiya stone can become an important teacher. Each stone is imprinted with information and energy that we discover as our knowledge and understanding of the q’uiya deepens. A p’aqo‘s relationship with a mesa is a love affair, and as in any significant intimate relationship, it requires attention in order to grow and thrive.

A collection of q’uiyas, or sacred stones (courtesy Deborah Bryan)

Caring for a mesa is also like tending to a young child – or any living being for that matter – it needs to be fed, purified, listened to, and treated with respect. We feed our mesas with love and intention, sitting with them and giving them our full attention. I have found it is easiest to connect with my mesa when I am in nature, the place where it is easiest for me to shift into communicating with the spirit world.

Working with a mesa often begins with ‘opening sacred space’ and ‘breathing in’ the energy of the surrounding natural world. I have done this quietly sitting under the large draping willow tree in my yard. Being wrapped in a waterfall of cascading leaves that reach down and touch the earth while taking in the timeless strength of the willow’s magnificent trunk is a way for me to re-member myself in my body.

As a p’aqo’s understanding of the practice of Andean medicine deepens, they may begin to work with multiple mesas, each with specific functions. Collective mesas that are an expression of an ayllu that can be used in ceremony. Some mesas are used for healing and removing negative energy. In the mesa I use for healing, each q’uiya holds a unique vibration of their own separate from a relationship I have formed with the stones.

In my personal mesa, I currently have twelve stones, six of which have become united in pairs. Through yanantin, pairs of masculine and a feminine q’uiyas have become joined. Although I may or may not have a contextual sense of where each of the stones in my mesa are from, the q’uiyas feel as though they are all from different places, each with their own history and lineage.

Yamotsu Hirasaka - according to tradition, the rock with which Izanagi blocked up the lower world when he escaped from Izanami's rotting corpse in the Kojiki mythology

In my mesa, two of the q’uiyas carry the energy of the lower world. One q’uiya conveys the deep, fertile feminine energy of the Amazon Jungle, while the other transmits the masculine energy of the wind. When I tune in to each stone, I can feel their essence in my body. I feel the movement and power of the wind protectively circling around me, while the q’uiya of the Amazon feels very old, very dark, and very, very still.  Sometimes when I am holding the stone, I have the comforting sensation of being buried deep in the earth.

The stones of the middle world, feel different to me. I associate the masculine stone with my ally who I refer to as ‘Birdman’ because he appears to me in that form in vision states.  The upper world stones are the most difficult for me to describe because I experience them as being in the energetic realm. To sense their energy, I must energetically extend my energy bubble) far above my head, expanding into light – way beyond where I can picture seeing.

When I am connected with the masculine q’uiya of the upper world, I can feel myself moving way up into the clouds, and looking down on a massive summit of energy. I often sense that there are white energetic beings surrounding me, even though I cannot see them. Their range is beyond what I am capable of describing accurately using words – I can only feel.

When I tune into the feminine stone of the upper world, it feels that I have passed through energetic bands or levels, and I am in a place that is very still. I sense this state as pure white light that is somehow contained.

Moving through the energy channel provided through my mesa enables me to experience energetic activity with beings whose presence I can somehow only vaguely sense. Sometimes, it can feel as if I am in deep sleep-yet I know that I am not because I am focusing.

We enter into relationship with the spirit world when we are listening to the rustling of leaves or the soft gradual beat of rain, when we are watching birds appearing suddenly overhead, smelling the moist earth, or are tuning into the life force of the wind.  These experiential states are accessed through feeling, not analysing. The mesa is a powerful conduit that enables a p’aqo to enter into other spiritual dimensions beyond physical reality.

Rocks have the power to transport us into spiritual dimensions beyond physical reality

Explaining Shinto

A priest at Shimogamo Jinja in Kyoto explains the shrine architecture to a group of visiting foreigners

 

Shinto trying to stay relevant in global, green era
Priests becoming more proactive in explaining cultural nuances of native religion to foreigners
BY TAKESHI NISHIDE  KYODO  JAN 15, 2013

One morning last fall, a group of around a dozen people of various nationalities and religious faiths visited Kanda Myojin Shrine in central Tokyo. The diplomats and their families from various countries in Europe, Latin America and Africa, including Luxembourg, Romania and Costa Rica, were participating in an Oct. 26-27 Shinto seminar for foreign envoys stationed in Japan.

The seminar, the first of its kind, was organized by the Association of Shinto Shrines, the umbrella organization for the 80,000 or so shrines scattered across Japan. On the first day, the participants received lessons on the Shinto elements of life in Japan, such as the practice of visiting a shrine at the beginning of a new year and the traditional “shichi-go-san” rite of passage for children aged 3, 5 and 7.

The annual outing of the mikoshi forms one of the key events in Shinto

During the group’s visit to Kanda Myojin on the second day, the participants went through the rituals of worship and then practiced taking part in carrying “mikoshi” (portable shrines) in a procession while wearing traditional happi coats and making the traditional “wasshoi” chant.

One diplomat welcomed the occasion as a hands-on cultural experience, while another said the seminar offered a glimpse into how the Japanese look at life and nature via the influence of Shinto.

The seminar was one of several unrelated initiatives intended to promote the understanding of Shinto outside Japan and use it as a means of cultural exchange in an era of globalization.

Katsuji Iwahashi, a lecturer at Kokugakuin University in Tokyo, is teaching a course to help would-be Shinto priests develop English communications skills.

Iwahashi is frequently asked by foreigners about the concept of deities in Shinto.  He explained that the people may recognize a god wherever they feel the presence of something supernatural, referring to the ephemeral nature of Shinto gods compared with the distinct identity of the Christian or Muslim God.

Iwahashi Katsuji (suit, left) translates for a priest explaining Shinto matters to foreigners

Iwahashi believes the vagueness that is the hallmark of Shinto can be effective in dealing with the demands of modern society.  “I am not trying to spread Shinto around the world. I’m hoping to help people understand the Shinto mind that is different from digital thinking,” he said.

In the ancient capital of Kyoto, Mitsutaka Inui, a priest at Kamigamo Shrine, a World Heritage site, is trying to get foreign tourists to become familiar with the religion.

When receiving foreign visitors, Inui explains in English the history of the shrine, as well as some of the rituals and concepts unique to Shinto.  “Shinto is a religion of experiences,” Inui said, stressing the importance of engaging in practical activities. He is considering a plan to launch a sleepover Shinto experience program for foreign visitors that involves such activities as sweeping the shrine precincts early in the morning and hand-copying religious writings.

Inui, who was born in a salaried worker’s family but who has a Shinto priest among his ancestors, decided to become a priest while in junior high school. Instead of enrolling with a Shinto-affiliated university as prospective priests usually do, Inui studied at Ritsumeikan University, a nonreligious institution. As he wanted to develop a global perspective, Inui devoted himself to studying Esperanto, an artificial language created as a means of international communication, as an extracurricular club activity.

Inui Mitsutaka (right) explains Shinto matters to a group of foreigners at Kamigamo Jinja in Kyoto

After becoming a priest at Kamigamo Shrine, Inui saw tour guides give foreign tourists misleading information about Shinto by explaining it in terms of monotheism. He came to the conclusion that the best way to prevent foreign visitors from developing erroneous perceptions is for priests themselves to communicate with them, so he strived to develop his English skills at the Interfaith Center of New York while working there under a temporary transfer program.

Inui believes Shinto can continue to gain people’s interest as something that transcends the everlasting march of science and technology.  “The thinking that we must not pollute water because a god resides in it helps to keep water and nature in pristine condition,” he said.

"The thinking that we must not pollute water because a god resides in it helps to keep water and nature in pristine condition." - Inui Mitstutaka

Conservation conference 2)

The entrance to Jingu Kaikan at Ise with a New Year decoration left up in June. In the Mie area it's a traditional custom to leave the decorations up all year to bring good fortune.

 

This is the second part of a report on the international gathering concerning Shinto and the environment jointly sponsored by Jinja Honcho and ARC (Alliance of Religions and Conservation).  For Part One, see here.

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One of the conference days was set aside for a Symposium on the National Environment, when the 60 international members meeting under ARC’s auspices were joined by some 700 Shinto priests in the Jingu Kaikan at Ise.  It formed part of the commemorative events for the 62nd renewal of Ise Jingu and was dedicated to exploring the co-existence of human beings with nature.

Dignitaries including the Deputy Secretary General of the UN, the British Ambassador, the Deputy Minister of the Environment, the Governor of Mie, the deputy mayor of Ise as well as the heads of Jinja Honcho and Ise Shrine. At the back of the stage can be seen Princess Akiko.

Introductory messages from the likes of the British Ambassador, the Governor of Mie Prefecture, and the Deputy Secretary General of the United Nations were followed by two special guest lectures by Princess Akiko (of the Mikasa imperial house) and the patriarch of Koyasan Shingon Buddhism, Yusei Matsunaga, 412th to hold the post.

In addition, there was a panel discussion coordinated by the president of Jinja Honcho featuring the Senior Priest of Ise and Dr Robert Cambell, a bilingual professor of Japanese literature in the graduate school of Tokyo University.  Here then was a most unusual event, featuring amongst others a Buddhist and a foreigner lecturing Shinto priests in their very own spiritual home.

As might be expected on such occasions, politeness was universal and controversy avoided.  Nonetheless there were glimpses of an underlying tension between particularism and universalism.  The president of Jinja Honcho for instance spoke of winning understanding for the special Japanese way of seeing things, whereas the Governor of Mie Prefecture quoted Arnold Toynbee’s remark about ‘the underlying unity of all religions’.

Ise rebuilding
For his part the head priest of Ise gave a statistical overview of the process of logging involved in the 20 year renewal cycle of the shrine.  This had been carried out for 1300 years, with interruptions during the Warring States Period (Sengoku Jidai) and also a delay after WW2.  It involved the felling of 10.000 hinoki (cypress) trees, each of which had to be over 50 cm in circumference at the height of the human chest.

During the Edo Period, when conservation was not an issue, the mountains had been laid bare because of the provision for pilgrims, particularly charcoal and firewood.  Extensive replanting had taken place in the twentieth century, though for hinoki to mature it takes some 200 years.  The shrine is committed to growing its own trees for future rebuilding, but for sustainability to be maintained it is estimated that 100 hectares is necessary.  Moreover, the forest has to be well-tended, which requires cutting, planting, providing access, and the thinning of sickly and weak trees.  It adds up to a substantial cost of some 200 million yen a year.

Preparing a hinoki log for the rebuilding of Ise Shrine

For his part the patriarch of Shingon Buddhism pointed out that it shared much with Shinto in seeing connections with nature as fundamental.  In Buddhism all living things have Buddha nature, but the spirituality of inanimate things was an idea from Shinto, as seen in rituals for broken needles, old dolls, etc.  When the Dalai Lama came to Japan, he was apparently asked about the soul of inanimate objects and responded, ‘That’s Shinto, isn’t it?’  It was a worldview which separated it from Buddhism, but one that was important to nurture in the present world.

Princess perspective
The talk by Princess Akiko was the most entertaining and personal of the afternoon.  It raised the question of whether Shinto was a matter of belief or simply part of the Japanese way of life.  With a doctorate in Japanese art history from Oxford University, she spoke of her impressions of living abroad.  Japan was said to be proud of having four seasons, she noted, but Britain often had four seasons in one day.  Moreover, whereas British water was good for black tea, Japanese water was good for green tea.

But what made the most impression on her was the British supermarkets had the same food throughout the year, which made her miss the seasonal nature of Japanese food.  There was something in Japanese culture that was in tune with the changing seasons of nature.  It had to do with an affinity for the deities living in rocks, waterfalls and trees, etc.  It was, she suggested, difficult for foreigners to appreciate.

It was the pluralism of Japanese thinking that led to another aspect difficult for foreigners to comprehend. ‘Born Shinto, marry Christian, die Buddhist’ was an accepted path in Japan.  Because of polytheism, it was easy for Japanese to accept any kind of deity as valid.  She herself had felt power and refreshment from a rock at Suwa Shrine named after Susanoo no mikoto.  And as a child, she had felt a sense of awe at the woods of Ise Jingu.

So what in the end was Shinto?  ‘Pay respects and have gratitude to the kami,’ she had been told by a priest.  It’s not a question of salvation or belief as in Abrahamic religions, but of simple things like saying itadakimasu before meals and gochisosama afterwards.  For Japanese these aspects of daily life enrich their existence.

A full house at Jingu Kaikan, with ARC representatives at the front behind whom are some 700 priests, mostly dressed in suits.

Conservation conference (ARC) 1)

With a Daoist monk at the front, ARC’s interfaith representatives line up at the beginning of their parade to Ise Jingu’s Naiku

 

ARC delegates are taught how to use the ‘temizuya’ water-basin for purification

 

The international meeting on conservation held at Ise Jingu on June 3-5 was a historic event for Jinja Honcho (Association of Shrines).  It was the first time for official Shinto to engage equally with other faiths in a joint project.  For a faith inclined to be secretive and insular, it was a major step.  This was signalled by the President of Jinja Honcho, when he joked at the beginning of his speech that since there was simultaneous translation he should be careful what he was saying!

The significance of the meeting was underlined by the venue, Jingu Kaikan, a ten-minute walk from the sacred Ujibashi bridge of the Ise Shrine.  In the words of the press release, the event represented ‘a historic opening of the Shinto religion towards other faiths and cultures.’  Metaphorically speaking, it was as if Shinto itself was crossing a bridge.

ARC
The four days of meetings were jointly held by Jinja Honcho with ARC – the Alliance for Religions and Conservation.  But what is it exactly?  Founded by the UK’s Prince Philip in 1995, it is an NPO that operates out of Bath and works with 12 major faiths to protect sacred sites and promote environmental policies such as the creation of ‘green pilgrimages’.  Funding comes from such sources as the Norwegian government, which set aside money from its oil funds for precisely such projects.  (How refreshing for a government to be using its budget for peaceful projects instead of war!!)

Despite its relatively small size, ARC has a worldwide impact.  This is because adherents of the major religions comprise some 85% of the world’s population, moreover they own 7 or 8% of the world’s forests.  They also comprise the third largest investment block in the world, so  there is a huge potential for meaningful change.  In Africa longterm environment plans have been launched by Christian, Muslim and Hindu religions, together with farming initiatives.  In China, Daoists have created a pilgrim eco-city at Louguan.

The partnership with Jinja Honcho began in 2000 when the Association of Shrines officially joined and produced the Shinto Statement on the Environment.   (See here.)  It has already resulted in a highly significant step, with the Association of Shrines committing itself to procuring sustainable wood for rebuilding its member shrines.  This is particularly noteworthy since the wood is imported from South-East Asia, where whole tracts of forest are being destroyed to provide lumber for Japan.

Messages of support
Throughout the event there were messages of support by dignitaries, such as Prince Charles, who noted that Shinto as a religion of awe had much to offer the modern world.   The deputy Secretary-General of the UN was also in attendance, as the talks were intended to feed into the organisation’s Strategic Goals.

The highlight of the ARC programme was a parade with banners and costumed representatives of eight different faiths to Naiku.  Here at Japan’s premier Shinto shrine, the faith representatives paid respects to the sun goddess, Amaterasu Omikami.  The group included Christians of different orders, Buddhists, Muslim representatives, a Hindu, a Jain, Confucian and a Daoist master.

Having lined up to cross the bridge, the group were taken to the temizuya (water basin) where there was a demonstration of how to cleanse oneself together with the suggestion that the ablutions represented a return to natural purity. Then the group proceeded to the Naiku itself, where the religious representatives of the major faiths were taken into the outer compound for a brief prayer and bow.

Later that evening discussions of green values and conservation matters were followed by evening entertainment of Ise-Dai-Kagura, with the heads of Ise Jingu and Jinja Honcho in attendance.  The kagura dance was performed in the Edo era (1600-1868) at shrines and people’s private houses as form of ritual dance and purification.  It featured a shishi dance combined with acrobatics in a crowd-drawing attraction, which would once have provided an opportunity to dispense amulets to those otherwise unable to travel to Ise to get one.

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For a different take on the conference, see the report in the Independent here.  For Part 2 of the report, click here.

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The lion dance (shishi) was designed to attract attention…

 

… and the acrobatics involved certainly were eye-catching!

 

Half-year renewal

The circular wreath, known as chinowa, through which participants pass as a purifying rite

 

Yes, believe it or not, we are nearly halfway through the year, and there’s a Shinto custom that invites participants to reflect on their past and purify themselves in anticipation of a fresh start for the coming half-year.  A kind of halfway renewal of purpose, one might say.  The Japan Times has provided a listing of the Kyoto shrines participating in the ritual, though it uses some peculiarly Western imagery for its readers in talking of ‘sins committed’, as if the ritual were akin to going to Catholic confession!

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From the Kokugakuin encylopedia…

Chinowa is “a large ring made of cogon grass (chigaya) and erected on the pathway leading to a shrine on the days of purification (harae) of the last day of the sixth or seventh month. Worshipers at the shrine pass through the ring as an act of purification from misdeeds (tsumi), impurities (kegare), or bad luck.  An extant fragment from the ancient gazetteer of the province  of Bingo relates the tale of Somin Shōrai, a legendary hero who tied a magical ring braided of cogon grass around his waist and thus escaped an epidemic.  In ancient times the ring of woven grass was attached to the waist or hung around the neck.

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Kyoto shrines invite visitors to reflect on year
JUN 20, 2014 Japan Times

Shrines in Kyoto will hold the annual Nagoshi no Harae purification ritual on June 30.

People walk through a huge wreath of elephant grass to atone for sins committed in the first half of the year and to pray for good health in the second half.

The ritual will start at 3 p.m. at Jishu and Jonangu shrines, 4 p.m. at Yoshida Shrine, 5 p.m. at Shiramine Shrine and 6 p.m. at Kurumazaki Shrine.

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Kitano Tenmangu will jump the gun by starting a few days earlier on June 25 by initiating the chinowa ritual at 5.00.  The form of the ritual differs from place to place, with some shrines suggesting passing through three times in a figure of eight pattern from left to right.  Others suggest passing through once, bearing a katashiro (human surrogate rubbed over the body to remove purities).

 

On June 30th the starting times for Kyoto shrines are as follows –
Shiramine Jingu – 17.00
Kenkun Jinja – 17.30
Kibune Jinja  – 15.00
Kamigamo Jinja – 20.00
Yoshida Jinja – 16.00
Okazaki Jinja  – 18.00
Kumano Jinja – 18.00
Jisshu Jinja – 15.00
Nonomiya Jinja – 14.00
Umemiya Taisha – 18.00
Kurumazaki Jinja – 18.00
Jonan-gu – 15.00
Fujinomori Jinja – 15.00
Izumo Daijingu – 14.00

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