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Inari, Kon Kon

Cover of the manga starring schoolgirl, Inari Fushimi (copyright Morohe Yoshida)

On a recent visit to Fushimi Inari, I noticed a large display by the central gate advertising an anime called Inari, Kon Kon, Koi Iroha.  I hadn’t heard of it, but it seems to have made a splash amongst the manga and anime crowd.

Since the shrine is trading on the publicity, I presume that they do not take exception to the contents.  Indeed, they seem to be positively endorsing it.  So when I get a chance, I’m going to look out for the series.

Meanwhile, the amazing Wikipedia has a full page devoted to it, from which the description below is taken.  It’s a striking reminder of the power of imagination – and the lighter side of Shinto.

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Wikipedia….

Inari, Konkon, Koi Iroha, also known as InaKon for short, is a Japanese manga series written and illustrated by Morohe Yoshida, which began serialization in Kadokawa Shoten’s Young Ace magazine from August 2010.

A television anime adaptation aired in Japan between January and March 2014.

Plot
Inari Fushimi is a clumsy girl who has a crush on classmate Kōji Tanbabashi. One day, after rescuing a fox pup named Kon from falling into a river, Inari is greeted by the shrine god Uka-no-Mitama-no-Kami, who gives Inari a portion of her power, allowing her to transform her appearance to that of any other human.

Main characters

Display at Fushimi Inari; exploiting the power of manga

Inari Fushimi
Inari is the main character. A middle school student. After saving a fox spirit from getting washed away in the river, she was granted with the power to change shape at will by uttering the phrase “Inari, Konkon”.

Later, it is hinted strongly that the power she received isn’t just the power to change shape; she has also unconsciously used the divine power to make her hopes come true.

After a series of events, during which she returns Uka’s powers but develops her own, Inari has entered new god training so that she can control her divine power and live with it as a human.

Outside of the gods, only Tōka and Kōji are aware of Inari’s powers and her relationship with the gods.

Uka-no-Mitama-no-Kami
Usually simply called “Uka”.  After granting a wish by Inari to become someone else, which she came to regret, Uka gave Inari some of her power so that she may transform at will.

Despite being a god, she has great interest with otaku [nerdy] stuff and is usually seen playing games in her room.  She appears to have developed feelings for Tōka [Inari’s older brother], much to the disdain of her fellow gods and mother.

Other gods

Kon
Uka’s familiar, who Inari saved from falling into a river. She is the smallest of the familiars, and was assigned to Inari according to her personality match. She can manifest herself to humans as a young fox-tailed girl wearing a hooded fox sweater. Kōji’s younger brother, Shirō, appears to like her.

ShiShi and RoRo
Uka’s familiars, older than Kon. They often stay close by Uka, who has them transform into games consoles.

Amaterasu Ōmikami
The head goddess of the sun who watches over Inari, making sure she can control her powers.

Ōtoshi-no-Kami
Known as “Toshi” for short. Uka’s older brother who has an incredible sister complex, which has disturbed Uka to the point where she has banned him from entering the Inari shrine.

Ōmiya-no-Me-no-Kami
One of the five pillar gods, known as “Miya” for short.  [Inari consists of five different deities, counted as ‘pillars’]

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To watch Episode 1 with subtitles, click here.

For an informed review of the first episode, see here.

(courtesy lostinanime.com)

Arrows and archery

Today’s Busha Shinji ceremony at Shimogamo Jinja is a pre-Aoi Festival purification rite to clear the air of evil spirits.  In this way it serves to prepare suitable conditions for the procession on May 15 which lies at the heart of the whole affair.

A happy shrine-goer with a New Year promise of one year's good fortune

Arrows of course play a prominent part in Shinto affairs, particularly at New Year when they act as a symbolic good luck charm for the coming year.  Firing arrows in the air is a common form of clearing away evil spirits, and similar customs are found across Asia.  Indeed, the notion of arrows as a means of dispelling evil has roots in mythology, with the very earliest Indian texts telling of Siva and his fellow gods killing terrifying demons.

The Japanese developed their own version of demon-slaying arrows, with Emperor Jimmu depicted carrying a bow in his colonising quest to spread the virtues of divine rule.  According to Wikipedia, a legend about the primal use of bow and arrow accrued around Yorimasu Minamoto in the twelfth century, as told here:

At that time, the Imperial Palace was taken over by an evil demon, which caused the Emperor to fall ill with great anxiety and suffering. When the Imperial High Priests tried and failed in their efforts to destroy the demon and dispel the Imperial household of its influence, they were at a loss. Finally, an archer, Yorimasu Minamoto, was summoned to the Imperial Palace in the hopes of slaying the demon with his bow and arrow, ridding the palace of this plague.

With a steady hand and a virtuous heart, Yorimasu Minamoto vanquished the demon with the first arrow, and his bow was declared to be a Hama Yumi; an “Evil-Destroying Bow”, (and the first arrow a Hamaya; a “Evil-Destroying Arrow”). Since then, Hama Yumi have been used in Buddhist and Shinto rituals of purification. (For example–Shihobarai–the Purification of the Four Directions.)

As a result, Hamaya (arrrows) are sold even today at shrines as good-luck charms; smaller replicas have been placed in shrines and people’s homes. It is believed that even one Hamaya which has been blessed by a Shinto priest carries great spiritual power and will bring protection against the forces of evil.  They are also believed to have the ability to attract vast good fortune.

 

Purification of one of the Four Directions

 

Michizane’s house

The small Sugawara-in shrine next to the Former Imperial Palace in Kyoto

 

Shinto is very much an ancestral as well as an animist religion. Many of the leading figures in Japanese history are honoured as part of the national consciousness, and one of the most salient is the statesman, Sugawara no Michizane (845-903). Deified as Tenjin, he’s now one of the three leading kami in terms of numbers of shrines (together with Hachiman and Inari).

Shrine poster of Sugawara no Michizane, whose spirit is the resident kami

The two most famous shrines associated with Michizane are the Kitano Tenmangu in Kyoto and the Dazaifu Tenmangu, where he was exiled. In recent years the location of the house where he was born has been turned into a flourishing shrine too.  It stands on the western side of Gosho, the Former Imperial Palace.

I’ve often passed the location, and during the past decade I’ve witnessed its growth from an obscure item of interest, barely noticed by passers-by, into what now looks like something of a tourist attraction.  There’s even a lengthy explanation in English, which says that not only was Michizane born at the once expansive estate named Sugawara-in, but his father, grandfather and great-grandfather too.

By the ninth century the villa had been transformed into the Kankiko-ji temple, which was later moved elsewhere.  A shrine was built on the remaining structure to honour Michizane as a patron of learning, together with his father and grandfather. The kami are referred to rather endearingly in English as ‘Sir Michizane Sugawara, Sir Koreyoshi Sugawara, and Sir Kiyokimi Sugawara’.

The shrine is the first in a pilgrimage of 25 shrines dedicated to Michizane, and the well used for his first bath and his beloved stone lantern still remain as cherished objects.

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Access.   The Sugawara-in Tenmangu Jinja is a five-minute walk north from the Marutamachi station on the Karasuma subway line.    Phone or fax 075 211-4769.

The Ox water-basin. No Tenjin shrine would be complete without an ox statue, since the animal is the deity's familiar through a legend concerning the ox-cart bearing him at his funeral.

 

As the patron of learning and poetry, Tenjin is always popular at exam times and for those wishing to achieve succes in scholarship or poetry

 

 

May festivities

Martial arts at Shimogamo Shrine with wooden swords

 

May brings a flurry of festivities in the Shinto calendar, and Kyoto kicks off the month with several colourful events, including the Aoi Festival preliminaries (the grand parade takes place on the 15th).  This year the sunshine was in expansive mood for the first weekend of what is surely in weather terms the grandest month of the year.  Plenty of reason to celebrate!!

Yesterday saw the end of the Inari Festival, with the return of the mikoshi to the main shrine (see here).  Meanwhile, at Shimogamo Shrine there was the Yabsusame horse archery, a preliminary Aoi Festival event.  Archers shot at three 50-centimeter-square targets set at 100-meter intervals, and according to Kyodo press agency about 22,000 visitors watched the event – which explains why I wasn’t able to get anywhere near it!

Today at Kamigamo Jinja there was purification of this year’s Saio representative, in preparation for the coming Aoi Matsuri. The event is held alternate years at Kamigamo and its sister shrine, Shimogamo.  (For a description of last year’s event, see here.)

Fujimori Shrine in the south of the city holds its annual festival at the beginning of May, climaxing tomorrow on the 5th with a display of acrobatic horse riding techniques used in medieval battles.  Also tomorrow Shimogamo will hold the Busha Shinji ritual to ward off evil spirits for the Aoi Festival by shooting arrows into the air.  And coming up soon is the Kanko Festival on May 10 at Matsunoo Taisha, with six mikoshi returning back to the shrine after doing their ’round of happiness’ (kanko).

Meanwhile, today Shimogamo Shrine held a display of martial arts, put on for the entertainment of the kami in similar manner to the origins of sumo.  it was a marvellous sunny occasion, with a whole variety of weapons and techniques to be seen, some well-known and some barely practised these days except by a handful of dedicated types.

 

The outer compound of the Shimogamo Shrine with the stage facing towards the kami. In the foreground naginata (long spear) practitioners await their turn to perform.

 

Swordsmen strike a pose

 

Respect! Honouring the kami

‘May queen’ (Saio-dai)

In Kyoto, May means the Aoi Festival.  (July is Gion Matsuri; October is the Jidai Matsuri.)

The Aoi festivities, which last the whole month, are overseen by a special ‘Saoi-dai’ who is chosen to represent the imperial princess who was once attached to the Shimogamo and Kamigamo Shrines.  It’s supposed to be a great honour, and the representative is usually chosen only from amongst the city’s best families.  Last year Green Shinto was lucky to carry an interview by Rachelle Soto with the woman chosen for 2012.  This year we carry a report from the Kyoto Shimbun.

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Risako Ota, who has been chosen as the 59th Saio-dai (April 14th, Kyoto Heian Hotel, Kamigyo Ward, Kyoto City)

The Aoi Festival on May 15 is one of Kyoto’s three main festivals, and Risako Ota, a sophomore at Kobe University, has been chosen as its 59th Saio-dai, or heroine. The “Aoi-Matsuri Gyoretsu Hozonkai,” or Aoi Festival procession conservation group, announced this on April 14.

Ota is the eldest daughter of Toru Ota, the fourth generation owner of the Japanese confectionery “Oimatsu.” At university, she is studying Art History and belongs to the drama society. Her special skills are Imayou singing and handicrafts, and her hobbies are history and art appreciation. Her elder brother, Yuma, played the role of “Chigo,” or sacred child, on the Naginata Hoko float at the Gion Festival 15 years ago.

Dressed in a cherry-blossom pattern kimono, Ota expressed her aspirations at a press conference in a Kamigyo Ward hotel. “I am honored to take part in this fantastic festival, a holy ritual which has been passed down from the days of Emperor Kinmei. I want to do the job splendidly, and am seeking guidance from many different people to this end.”

The Saio-dai is based on Saio, a Heian Period imperial princess who served both the Kamigamo and Shimogamo shrines, and the role was revived in 1956.

(translated by Galileo, Inc.)

 

Last year's Saio-dai at her purification ritual

Hindu/Shinto identity

Paying respects at a shrine may simply involve compliance with convention, but does that make one a Shintoist?

 

Green Shinto friend Anu has written recently of the difficulties involved in defining Hinduism.  The piece can be found on her blog, www.allabouthinduism.info, and comes at a time when Hindu politics are very much in the news through the likely victory in the coming election of the Hindu Nationalist BJP.  The similarities with Shinto are striking, so much indeed that with a few modifications to the following article it would virtually be possible to substitute Shinto for Hinduism.   It certainly gives food for thought…

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What makes a Hindu ?

I have been pondering over this question for a while. And the truth is I am struggling to come up with a clear definition. It has been equally hard to find an academic definition that works.

Simply speaking, ‘Hindu’ is a term given to and adopted by the people who lived on the other side of the Sindhu River i.e the Indian sub-continent. This is primarily a geographical definition and is both inadequate and largely irrelevant in our times. There are as many non-Hindus in India today as there are Hindus outside India.

People pay respects to the kami in different ways, but can one say they are following Shinto?

One could say a Hindu is a person who follows Hinduism.  Which is true to some extent but not entirely and not as simple as it sounds. ‘Following Hinduism’ takes many forms.  For under the umbrella of Hinduism there are myriad sects, traditions and schools of thought.  Some shockingly different from each other yet co-existing as part of one.

For instance,while a majority of Hindus worship the extensive pantheon of gods, there is a section that worships only the nameless, formless form of God.  While some believe in the non-dual aspect of God many others believe there is a fine veil that separates individual consciousness from the cosmic consciousness and the two can never truly merge.

The gods themselves look different and are called by different names across various regions.  Same festivals are celebrated in various ways and traditions too have their regional differences.  Even the popular mythological tales have their own regional flavour, meshed with local folklore and told in regional languages.

To make matters even more complicated, different Hindus may follow some or neither of these traditions, subscribe to some or none of these beliefs and still hold on to their Hindu Identity.  Furthermore, you may be an atheist, not believe in God and still be a Hindu.

Following Shinto practices such as receiving fortune-telling slips does not necessarily make one a believer in the kami

Perhaps, a Hindu is determined by birth. Yes, that is often the case but not always.  Increasingly, across the world, there are many who are not born into Hindu households yet adopt some of its tenets and consider themselves Hindus.  At the same time there is no concept of conversion in Hinduism.  You are a Hindu if you think you are !

With no single founder or authority at its centre, Hinduism has evolved organically over a long period of time.  There is no single text laying out the rules of conduct or answers to existential or ethical questions.  In fact, in Sanskrit there is no real equivalent of the word ‘religion’ [there was no word for religion in Japanese until modern times].

To give a religious identity to a group of people based on a such a diverse social system leads to stereotypical definitions. For example, Hindus follow the caste system, have several gods, believe in idol worship, are vegetarians, view cows as sacred etc, etc.  All of which are true only in part.  There are of course some common beliefs like karma or re-incarnation but these beliefs are not confined to Hinduism alone.

In short the Hindu identity is as complex as Hinduism itself and almost impossible to define without falling into stereotypical cliches.  I personally think that for a Hindu identity stems as much from a sense of shared heritage and culture (either by birth or by choice) as it does from belonging to a religious group or praying to certain deities. Sometimes even more so.

Fushimi Inari festival

The Inari Festival (Inari sai) at Kyoto’s Fushimi Inari Shrine finished today with the return of its five mikoshi from their ‘otabisho‘, or resting place, where they have been since April 20.  (The Shinko Festival held that day is when the mikoshi leave the Fushimi shrine).

The return home is known as the Kanko Festival, which consists of welcoming back the festooned trucks carrying the mikoshi, then transferring the ‘goshintai’ (sacred body of the kami) from the mikoshi and back into their respective shrines. Crowds are milling around during the event, though guards are on hand to keep people out of sacred areas.

The weather had been cloudy shortly before the event began at 4 o’clock, but it soon brightened up into one of those glorious May afternoons when you couldn’t imagine a more sparkling occasion.  With the parishioners and shrine personnel decked out in their finest apparel, it was a truly joyous occasion and one that combined pageantry with a sense of tradition and spirituality.

Trucks bearing mikoshi containing the spirit-bodies of the five kami of Fushimi Inari parade around the southern part of Kyoto

The trucks bearing the mikoshi enter through the Fushimi Inari torii and are officially welcomed back

Miko prepare water for purification of those returning

Priests parade into the shrine compound and up to the main building

... followed by miko san, some with a pine hairpiece, and some with aoi (hollyhock) leaves

All under the watchful eye of the guardian fox (kitsune)

A screen is erected to shield the 'spirit-body' (goshintai) from the gaze of onlookers

The goshintai is moved under a protective covering from the mikoshi into the shrine's sanctuary

Now the mikoshi has served its purpose....

... it's time for men in white gloves to dismantle the trappings

... and take down the screen...

... Time too for a final goodbye to the rice guardian, bearing the key to the granary in its mouth

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