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Power spotter

Tarobo Mountain in Shiga

 

Bilingual Australian, Kara Yamaguchi, who does tours of Japan’s power spots, has updated her blog and has some stimulating new information as well as stunning photos…   Check it out:

http://sacredgatewaysofjapan.blogspot.jp/

Below is an extract from an interview on her website…. (all photos courtesy Yamaguchi)

Could you tell us a little bit about your background and how you became interested in ‘the worlds of ancient Japan’ ?

Apparently as a child I was always digging up our garden looking for old relics and coins, so I guess my love of lost ancient worlds has always been there! I’ ve also always been drawn to indigenous people and shamanism as a way to communicate with other worlds. But I never followed any particular spiritual practice until recent years.It all really came about when my father passed away. I’d been taking photos for several years and found myself very drawn to Wakayama prefecture and places like Asuka without understanding the deeper connection at the time. My path to research sacred sites in Japan started in earnest after a promise I made with my father that we would go on a pilgrimage if he got better. I’ d seen a book on Koya-san iii in a local bookstore and I was just so mysteriously drawn to it and I knew there was some hidden connection. I showed it to him one day in hospital to lift his spirits and he said ‘ That is so beautiful’ . He didn’ t know about Koya-san so I said ‘ Ok, when you get better we’ll go there’. When he died, I honoured our promise and that was the beginning of all the pilgrimages, and my dad’s parting gift to me.

A Japanese 'Rosetta sone'

I wasn’t even aware of all the pilgrimage routes and only vaguely aware at that time about ancient Shinto beliefs. But after I returned from Koya-san, for the next two weeks all I would see was the kanji for Izumo (出 雲) everywhere I went. It was calling to me for some reason!

In hindsight it is interesting to see that many of the places I have visited are linked with Amaterasu, the sun goddess. Izumo is of course directly linked to the goddess in Japanese mythology as the shrine is said to have been a gift from her to the kami, Okuninushi.

A lot of foreigners don’ t make the journey there for some reason, but its power and sacredness is something that stays with you.  Visiting these sacred sites somehow seems to change you and before I knew it, I had a new identity and I just sensed intuitively that this ancient world was one I needed to explore. I started documenting sacred sites and it expanded into a body of work spanning five years of research and pilgrimages all over the country. And I hope that it is a journey which will continue, because there are still many unanswered questions about so much of the ancient world. I am also compelled to carry on with this work as urban development coupled with recent environmental disasters is threatening the survival of some of these sacred sites. We can’ t take the risk of losing such important keys to our understanding of Japan’ s ancient history and how it relates to our history as a whole.
 
Could you give a brief overview of the ancient beliefs of Japan?

Ancient spiritual practices in Japan, later known as Shinto, adhered to the belief that spirits were to be found and honoured in everything around you: the rocks, the trees, the mountains and even in the tools that you used. There was a reverence for life in all things which we have sadly moved away from in our modern age. There was also a very strong tradition of shamanism which is not something often associated with Japan. The legendary Queen Himiko (3rd century AD), Japan’ s most famous shaman leader, seems to forever fascinate the Japanese public. It is interesting to see how in recent years there has been a sudden surge in interest with anything to do with psychic and paranormal phenomena. It’ s hard to be certain why this is all happening, but I feel it may be a sign that these ancient beliefs are returning to modern Japan and being readapted to the context of contemporary life.
 

Power spot Hayatama Shrine in Shingu, Wakayama

 

Awaji Island megaliths

New Year countdown

New Year’s Japanese good luck charm, Hamaya
December 4, 2013  The Yomiuri Shimbun

With the arrival of December, attendants at Tsurugaoka Hachimangu shrine in Kamakura, Kanagawa Prefecture, are busy making New Year’s hamaya, or evil-repelling arrows. The lucky arrows are believed to ward off demons and ensure the safety of family members. The shrine will make about 200,000 60-centimeter arrows and 45,000 94-centimeter arrows by New Year’s Eve.

Miko preparing hamaya (good fortune arrows) at Tusurgaoka Hachimangu in Kamakura. It:s said the origins lie in the Edo era custom of giving newborn boys a decorative set of bow and arrows.
Extract from the Kokugakuin Encyclopedia of Shinto…
Hamaya are popular among New Year’s visitors to shrines as one type of good-luck charm or engimono. From the Edo to the early Meiji period, hamayawere given as gifts to celebrate the first New Year of a male baby’s life, frequently in a set together with a pair of decorative bows calledhamayumi (“demon-breaking bows”). The custom of selling the arrow alone is thought to be a later abbreviation of this custom. Even today, the custom persists of standing such symbolic bows and arrows at the northeast and southwest corners of a new house (called kimon, the directions thought particularly susceptible to evil influences) on the occasion of the roof-raising ceremonies (jōtōsai). The etymological significance of hama is not clear, but it is said to have been an ancient word for an archery target or an archery contest.

Getting started

One of the difficulties for non-Japanese is knowing what exactly Shinto entails.  How does one learn more, or what should one do if one follows ‘the way of the kami’?  In this respect Louis Erickson of the Shinto mailing list had some valuable suggestions drawn from his own experience….

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I started with books – Shinto: The Kami Way.  I hit the library and the bookstore.  I read several books, and have a couple more queued up.  There’s some stuff on the Web, even some good stuff.

If I recall, the “Welcome to this list!” on the Shinto mailing list message had some books listed – they’re a good start!

Rev Barrish at Tsubaki USA near Seattle

First, I’ll recommend the Tsubaki Grand Shrine of America’s website. Tsubaki America is a branch of a Japanese shrine.  It’s run by Rev. Koichi Barrish, a certified Shinto priest.  Their web site has a lot of basic information.  They have several books for sale, too, which I was happy to buy from them instead of Amazon so they could have the profits.  They also have a copy of Kami no Michi to read on the Web, which was interesting both for the life history of a remarkable man – accountant, prisoner of war, teacher, Shinto priest, educator – and his thoughts on Shinto itself.  Rev. Barrish also has an active Facebook page – the link is on the Tsubaki America site – which has an archive of longer articles.

Green Shinto has a reading list at https://www.greenshinto.com/recommended-reading/ which is pretty complete, too.  The posts and book reviews are always interesting.

I will also suggest A Year In The Life of a Shinto Shrine by John K. Nelson.  It covers the cycle of a year as observed at a large Shinto shrine, and gives some view into what the different festivals mean and how the traditions fit into modern day Japan.  It give s more of a feel of how the festivals and seasons fit together.

If you’re looking for the norito, the Shinto chants, the best one is Shinto Norito by Rev. Ann Llewelyn Evans.  Tsubaki America has an audio CD that goes along with it.  Hearing the norito changes how you will read them.

'The Fox and the Jewel' takes one deep into the world of Kyoto's Fushimi Inari

I thought The Fox and the Jewel by Karen A. Smyers was interesting.  If you’re interested in Inari, this is a great book.  Even if you’re not, it’s an interesting book that gives some visibility into some aspects of Japanese spirituality that aren’t often discussed.

I mentioned Tsubaki America.  If you find yourself in the Seattle area I think a visit is worth the trip.  It’s just over an hour north of Seattle.  The shrine is on the banks of the Pilchuck river, just outside the town of Granite Falls. It is a beautiful place.  I have family in Seattle and am up that way once or twice a year, and try to make it to the shrine at least one of those trips.  I’m looking forward to volunteering there over the New Year’s holiday this year.

If you’re looking for concrete directions on how Shinto is done, I haven’t found much that’s very clear.  The best description of the daily offerings at the kamidana is the one that Tsubaki America includes with any kamidana or supplies.  David Chart’s website has a good description of the kamidana and lots of comments about it at http://www.davidchart.com/2011/01/01/kamidana/ although I noted several little things he and I do differently.

One of the things I find very appealing about Shinto, in fact, is there does seem to be a certain amount of flexibility inherent in it.  While the big shrines clearly will have perfect rituals and do everything as tradition demands, people’s lives are all different, and as long as you’re sincere and treating the kami and the world with respect, they seem not to mind.  There’s a refreshing flexibility about a spirituality that will purify cars and cell phones, and has found ways to help keep people involved by mail.

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Books mentioned above can be found under Book Reviews in the Categories column to the right…

Gay friendly?

Patrick Linehan, US consul general

Interesting last sentence to the news article below about the openly gay US consul in Osaka…  (Extract from the Japan Times article ‘Gay consul general finds partner, place in government’)

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In summer 2002, when he was working at the U.S Embassy in Tokyo, he met his future husband, a second-generation Brazilian-Japanese, as he excitedly watched, with his face painted yellow and green, a World Cup soccer match broadcast live at a local bar. Linehan immediately fell in love with his smile.

Five years into their relationship the couple got married when Linehan was posted to Canada, where same-sex marriage is legally recognized.

Linehan recalls that falling in love with Kanegusuke gave him the incentive to come out.

A native of Massachusetts, Linehan has lived in Yokohama and Sapporo for his work and language studies, becoming along the way a big fan of Japanese sake and traditional “enka” songs. He celebrated his 60th birthday at Kamigamo Shrine in Kyoto.

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Kamigamo Shrine offers English tours and ceremonies.  See the bottom part of this page.

Identical twin, Patrick Linehan, gave an inspiring Ted Talk this year in Kyoto about being ‘Different‘.

The Kasagake horse ritual at Kamigamo has an international feel with a running English-language commentary by priest Inui Mitsutaka, who once worked with the ISF in New York

Religion in Japan (new edition)

Religion in Japan: Unity and Diversity, H. Byron Earhart (Western Michigan University)

Religion in Japan: Unity and Diversity  BY ANDREW LEE
Japan Times NOV 30, 2013

This fifth edition of the classic textbook “Religion in Japan” has been completely rewritten by author H. Byron Earhart to give greater coverage to the modern period, such as changes in marriage and death rites, and to widen the field of research into belief systems to include mainstays of modern Japanese pop culture, and the country’s obsession with Disneyland.

The new section on “alternative realities” is particularly interesting, with Earhart postulating that the worlds depicted in many anime, manga and games are “similar to the cosmos depicted in scriptures and myths.”

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Earhart studied Shugendo and the syncretic nature of Japan's religious sentiment

About the author

H. Byron Earhart studied under Mircea Eliade and Joseph M. Kitagawa at the University of Chicago, where he received a doctorate in History of Religions. He first went to Japan on a Fulbright in the early 1960s to complete a doctoral dissertation on Shugendo, a distinctively Japanese “mountain religion.” He has taught and written about Japanese religion in the United States, returning to Japan for research. His writing has concentrated on Shugendo, folk religion, and new religions. His approach to Japanese religion has been to see it as a unified worldview rather than as separate religious organizations, and to place separate traditions and the overall worldview within historical perspective.

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Book blurb…

This standard text explores religion in Japan as a complex tapestry of different religious strands, reflecting both the unity and diversity of Japanese culture, a theme Earhart pioneered in the first edition (1969) of this enduring, classic book–a theme he has devoted subsequent decades to refining through cutting-edge scholarship and keen observation of the evolving religious scene. Tracing the development of religious traditions from the prehistoric era through modern times, Earhart explores the vital influence of Shinto, Buddhism, Daoism, Confucianism, and folk religion. Presuming no technical or academic background, the text guides students to key Japanese religious themes, which include the proximity of humans and gods, the religious character of the family, the bond between religion and the nation, and the pervasiveness of religion in everyday life. This new edition updates the description and interpretation of the entire history of religion in Japan in light of the latest developments in the field. In the latter chapters, changes in the contemporary scene are highlighted, discussing Tokyo Disneyland, manga, and anime as “alternative reality,” as well as the innovations in more “traditional” events such as wedding ceremonies and rites for the dead.

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Extract from the preface….

Reading textbook descriptions of religion in Japan was like scanning a menu at a Chinese restaurant: select one item from each column—the choices being mainly Shinto and Buddhism, with fewer items for Confucianism and Christianity. These traditions, somewhat similar to the dishes in a Chinese restaurant, were presented as sharing a common heritage but listed rather arbitrarily as separate subjects. In these books, Buddhism was shown some respect, but the pre-Buddhist heritage and Shinto were summarily dismissed. A leading Japanologist of the time wrote, “The religion of the early Japanese was primarily nature worship which, probably under Chinese influence, later came to include a certain amount of ancestor worship.” This tradition became Shinto, but according to this scholar’s book, even in modern times, “the true basis of Shinto remains unchanged, a simple and naïve nature worship.” Even more problematic than the dismissal of ancient Japanese Shinto beliefs and practices was the lack of a unified overview of religious life in Japan.

 

Exploring the mystery of Japan's hidden spirituality

Shinto politics

Prime Minister Shinzo Abe visits Ise Shrine on Oct. 5 to watch the Sengyo no Gi, an important Shinto ritual that is held to transfer the symbol of the shrine's deity between buildings. (Courtesy KYODO)

Back to the future: Shinto’s growing influence in politics
BY DAVID MCNEILL  SPECIAL TO THE JAPAN TIMES  NOV 23, 2013

A small organization, little known to the public, has helped restore much of Japan’s controversial past — and it is only getting started

Immaculate and ramrod straight in a crisp, black suit, Japan’s education minister, Hakubun Shimomura, speaks like a schoolteacher — slowly and deliberately. His brow creases with concern when he talks about Japan’s diminished place in the world, its years of anemic economic growth and poorly competing universities. Mostly, though, he appears to be worried about the moral and spiritual decline of the nation’s youth.

“The biggest problem with Japanese education is the tremendous self-deprecation of our high school children,” he says in an interview at his Tokyo office. He cites an international survey in which children are asked: “Are there times when you feel worthless?” Eighty-four percent of Japanese kids say yes — double the figure in the United States, South Korea and China, he laments. “Without changing that, Japan has no future.”

Shimomura’s remedy for this corrosive moral decay is far-reaching: Children will be taught moral and patriotic education and respect for Japan’s national symbols, its “unique” culture and history. Textbooks will remove “self-deprecating” views of history and references to “disputed” war crimes. They will reflect the government’s point of view on key national issues, such as Japan’s bitter territorial disputes with its three closest neighbors: China, Russia and South Korea.

Education reform represents only one layer of Shimomura and his government’s ambitions. Prime Minister Shinzo Abe, a close political ally, wants to revise three of the country’s basic modern charters: the 1946 Constitution, the education law, which they both think undervalues patriotism, and the nation’s security treaty with the United States. The Emperor would be returned to a more prominent place in Japanese society. The special status of Yasukuni Shrine, which enshrines most of Japan’s war dead, including the men who led the nation to disaster between 1933 and 1945, would be restored.

Mark R. Mullins, University of Auckland

“They’re trying to restore what was removed by the U.S. Occupation reforms,” explains Mark Mullins, director of the Japan Studies Center at the University of Auckland. If it succeeds, the project amounts to the overturning of much of the existing order in Japan — a return to the past, with one eye on the future.

Shinto Seiji Renmei (the Shinto Association of Political Leadership)
For an explanation of the core philosophy behind this project I visit an imposing black building that sits on the leafy borders of Meiji Shrine in Tokyo. The Association of Shinto Shrines, representing about 80,000 shrines, is classed as a religious administrative organization. It is also one of Japan’s most successful political lobbyists.

Many of the nation’s top elected officials, including Abe and Shimomura are members of the organization’s political wing, Shinto Seiji Renmei (officially, the Shinto Association of Spiritual Leadership — eschewing the word “political” from the title). A sister organization, the Shinto Political Alliance Diet Members’ Association boasts 240 lawmakers, including 16 out of the government’s 19-member Cabinet. Abe is the association’s secretary-general.

Seiji Renmei sees its mission as renewing the national emphasis on “Japanese spiritual values.” In principle, this means pushing for constitutional revision and patriotic and moral education, and staunchly defending conservative values in ways that seem to contradict Abe’s internationalist capitalism. The association opposes the free trade of rice and the sale of “strategic property” such as forests or lakes to non-Japanese, for instance.

Since its birth in 1969, Shinto Seiji Renmei has notched several victories in its quest to restore much of the nation’s prewar political and social architecture. In 1979, it successfully lobbied the government to reinstate the practice of using imperial era names. In 2007, it won a national holiday, April 29, for Japan’s wartime monarch, Hirohito — a day when Japanese might “look in awe at the sacred virtues of the Showa Emperor.”

The symbolic role of Yasukuni
Over the past decade, Tokyo has tried to impose a directive demanding that teachers lead schoolchildren in singing the Kimigayo national anthem — another Shinto concern. In April this year, 168 Diet members visited Yasukuni for its spring festival — the largest number since these counts began 24 years ago. “A lot more politicians now understand the importance of our views,” concludes Yutaka Yuzawa, head of Shinto Seiji Renmei.

The then prime minister Koizumi Junichiro visiting Yasukuni

Though not a member of the association, former Prime Minister Junichiro Koizumi helped end the taboo on any overt show of sympathy with the militarism of the past with his six pilgrimages to Yasukuni, climaxing in his visit on Aug. 15, 2006. Yuzawa’s father, Tadashi, was the head priest of Yasukuni at the time. For both, it was a vindication of years of struggle. “Our stance is that it is natural for the prime minister to pay his respects at the shrine on behalf of the country.” Lawmakers such as former Prime Minister Naoto Kan who refuse to go are “impertinent,” he adds.

Yuzawa accepts that these visits will worsen already dangerously frayed ties with Beijing and Seoul but insists it is “not something Japan can bend on.”  “It relates to our culture, history and tradition,” he says. “To us, Yasukuni Shrine is a god.” Criticism that prime-ministerial visits confer legitimacy on the Class-A war criminals enshrined there cannot be taken seriously, he says.

“Perhaps, according to today’s judgment, they might have made mistakes but back then they were doing their best for the country. In Japan, our way of thinking about the dead souls is that we don’t criticize them. They were protecting the Emperor and, by extension, the Japanese people.” That vital point, he says, is now understood by a growing number of Japanese politicians.

MacArthur and Hirohito at a meeting, not long before the emperor renounced his divinity

The American Occupation of 1945-51 ended Shinto’s status as a state religion and attempted to banish its influence from Japan’s public sphere, notably its emphasis on a pure racial identity linked to the Emperor. The core element of this belief, ruthlessly enforced through the education system, was the emperor’s divine status as a direct descendant of the sun goddess Amaterasu. Though weakened, Shinto conservatives in Japan “were simply biding their time” until they could restore the religion’s rightful place in Japanese society, says Mullins.

He sees 1995 — the year of the Kobe earthquake and Aum Shinrikyo deadly gas attacks on Japan’s subway — as a turning point. The two events, combined with the agonizing decline of the miracle economy, had a profound impact on the nation’s confidence. “The sense after that was: ‘We have so many troubles in Japan, we need to go back and get what we had,’ ” recalls Mullins. “There are certain people very sympathetic to that, to Shinto’s restoration vision.”

Prime minister Abe
One of those people is Abe. In October, he became the first prime minister in 84 years to attend the most important ceremony in Shinto, the Sengyo no Gi at Ise Shrine — a centuries-old ritual in which the main shrine buildings are demolished and rebuilt. Ise is considered home to the emperor’s ancestors; Amaterasu is enshrined in the inner sanctum. The highlight of the ceremony is the removal of a mythological “sacred mirror” used to lure the sun goddess out of her cave.  Abe took eight members of his Cabinet along to watch.  Some scholars were agnostic on the visit, given that prime ministers routinely go to the shrine to show respect for Japanese traditions and culture. Others, however, were alarmed.

Japan's prime minister, Abe Shinzo (from Huffington Post)

“In the past, Ise Jingu (shrine) was the fountainhead for unifying politics and religion and national polity fundamentalism,” author Hisashi Yamanaka recently told the Asahi newspaper. “Abe’s act is clearly a return to the ways before World War II.”

It is far from clear how much of the past, exactly, Abe and his Cabinet want to revive, or how much sway Shinto holds over them. Shimomura swats away concerns about the government’s agenda. “Sections of the media have an allergy to moral education,” he says. “They are sending out the wrong image that we are trying to reinstate the prewar education system.” However, parts of Shinto clearly sit uneasily with the modern, globalized economy the government says it is trying to build.

Rice planting ceremony - rice is a sensitive political issue in the current TPP talks (zimbio.com)

Yuzawa says Japan should prohibit sales of land and property to China, Japan’s largest trading partner. Another possible point of conflict is the free trade of agricultural products, a key demand of U.S. negotiators in the Trans-Pacific Partnership trade talks. Traditional ties between rice cultivation and Shinto rituals make this a no-no for Shinto fundamentalists, historian Matthew Penney notes in a recent article on the Asia-Pacific Journal.

Fundamentalism
Mullins says this magnetic tug of the past is not unique to Japan. “I see Shinto fundamentalists as very similar to U.S. Christian fundamentalists and Hindu neo-nationalists,” he says. “It’s people trying to cope with the modern world: to make it all black and white and nail it down.”

Shinto scholar John Breen, of Kyoto's International Research Center for Japanese Studies

But he says an “ecumenical group” of like-minded conservatives is in the ascendancy in Japan, led by Shinto and Nippon Kaigi, a nationalist think tank that advocates a return to “traditional values” and rejects Japan’s “apology diplomacy” for its wartime misdeeds. “Abe’s comeback has given them this sense of confidence,” Mullins says.

Whatever happens to his government’s larger agenda — much depends on Abe’s economic performance — Shinto conservatives will likely continue their quiet mission to transform Japan. John Breen, a religion specialist at the International Research Center for Japanese Studies in Kyoto, cites the restoration of imperial markers on the annual calendar: State Foundation Day; Culture Day, which marks the birthday of the Meiji Emperor; the current Emperor’s birthday in December; and Labor thanksgiving, which marks “the Emperor’s annual performance of the Niiname rite, a celebration of Amaterasu’s gift of rice to Japan.”

“The deep imperial meanings of these holidays are concealed behind innocuous names like Culture day and Labor thanksgiving,” Breen says. But the Shinto Association of Spiritual Leadership is determined to restore their original titles, “and so make apparent to all their true meaning.”

Yoshida autumn

Maple leaves at their best in the grounds of Yoshida Jinja in Kyoto

 

Mindfulness of the changing seasons is part of Japanese culture, and it’s inherent in shrine visiting too.  Today I took a walk through Yoahida Shrine here in Kyoto, where there was a belated Shichi-go-san ceremony going on against a background of spectacular autumn colours.  It was one of those glorious sunshine days when people smile and buildings sparkle – one of those days when everything truly does seem to be in harmony.

Family celebration of 7-5-3 with a private ceremony at Yoshida Jiinja

 

The 7 year old presents the tamagushi (sakaki sprig) offering

 

A wedding couple pose beneath a maple tree in the grounds of the shrine

 

The chigi on the roof of the Daigengu glitter in the sunshine

 

As well as the maples, the gingko trees were in splendid array

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