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Gagaku in Britain (Part 2)

Tortoises in Heaven - a 1980s London gagaku group. Dean Brodrick is playing the sho in the middle row on the left.

This is Part Two of an interview with Dean Brodrick, who ran a 1980s gagaku group in London. (For Part One, click here.)

4) What venues did you play at, and how was the reaction?

I think we played at SOAS (part of London University), at the London Music Collective, and at the church of St.Giles next to the Barbican as part of a festival we organized called Music for a Summer Day (2nd July 1988). By this time we had renamed ourselves Tortoises in Heaven, to try and conjour up the ancient, slow moving and divine nature of the form.

I think people were most impressed, having never seen or heard the likes of gagaku in the UK ever before. We made a LP vinyl recording of all the music at that concert,  called Golden Apples, which included the gagaku orchestra and 17 other groups.  We pressed 1000 of the records on our own label Bonjour Records, a labour of love. But at that time we were doing many different forms of avantguarde performances and scarcely had time to notice people’s reaction.

5)) How long did the group stay together and why did it break up?

Looking back, I regret not keeping that group going longer. We played as a project for the few concerts we ourselves organized just during that year. I think we didn’t realize how special it was, and as everyone was involved in other bands, which had tours and recordings and some kind of following, whereas we had none, the costumes went back in the suitcase and have not come out since. I hope moths didn’t make them their home!  I still have the hichiriki and have used it on many recordings requiring a strange wailing sound.

Japan-based Reigakusha Gagaku Ensemble

 

6) What do you think is the appeal of gagaku, and what would you say to those who find it difficult?

Gakaku claims the honour of being the oldest extant written music in Japan, and in fact the world. It is comprised of many musical traditions and influences that traveled the Silk Road, from the Middle East through Central Asia and Tibet.  It flourished in the days of the T’ang Dynasty in China (618-907), and finally journeyed further to Korea. It was introduced to Japan during the 7th century, and the vast repertoire has been played in the Japanese Imperial court in an unbroken tradition since then.

gagaku instruments (from facts and details.com)

Gagaku is possibly the slowest music in the world. Its tempos have speeded up over the last century, according to musicologists, but they remain very slow.  In our age, the age of speed and instananeousness, gagaku is like an antidote.

For the Japanese the music must have all sorts of associations, depending on ones family history and experience. It is frequently used as Shinto wedding music, for instance.  For a non-Japanese it may sound like music from another planet.

Of course, gagaku does NOT employ the western equally tempered scale (a scale introduced by Europeans over the last 300 years, which many indigenous musics are being forced do adopt out of fear of sounding “out of tune” to a Western ear).  In fact, nothing could be further from the truth.  It is western music, now dominated by this artificial, unnatural, logorithmic so-called ‘equal temperament’, which utilizes tuning that is non-harmonically fixed – the subject for another essay!

So to the western ear gagaku has strange tunings, strange sounds, and strange forms in strange time signatures. It’s completely strange. And that was its appeal to me.  But I must admit to having a palette for the exotic, a taste for the weird, and a leaning towards that which, at first, I do not understand.

Incidentally, the only time I’ve heard gagaku music quoted outside its Japanese context was on a TV advertisement for paracetemol, a medicine to alleviate pain.  The head of a woman, her face contorted with pain, accompanied by gagaku music finds relief as the painkiller has its effect and the sublime Japanese imperial court music is replaced with… Vangelis!

Melissa Holding, one of the members of Tortoises in Heaven, picutred here playing koto

 

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For an absorbing one-hour documentary programme on gagaku, see this youtube film.  To simply listen to an example of gagaku music, try this Unesco recording here.

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Gagaku music at Shimogamo Jinja during one of the Aoi Festival events

Gagaku in Britain (Part 1)

Musical adventurer, Dean Brodrick, who improbably put together a gagaku orchestra in Britain in the 1980s

1) A gagaku orchestra in 1980s Britain seems most unlikely.  Can you tell us how that came about?

During the 1980s I was collaborating with musicians from diverse backgrounds, many of whom I had met through association with the LMC (London Musicians Collective).  I helped to administrate this collective for most of a decade and was fortunate to meet and play with countless musicians in the free and experimental music scene.  It was considered “normal” amongst such pioneers to seek out music from every nook and cranny of the recordable world.

This was a time of enthusiastic ethno-musicological research, a time just prior to the now familiar notion of “world music”.  The compact disc had not arrived just yet, and a recording referred to either a piece tape or a piece of vinyl.  My friends and I looked particularly outside the regular vistas of pop/rock/folk and classical. We went to the National Sound Archive to seek out the music of the indigenous and obscure folk recordings, field recordings of animals and birds and environments; we huddled around lo-fi records of free jazz and home made improvised music; we thrived on uncommerciality. We developed a taste for dissonance, oddness, and the uncategorizable.

A Japanese musician plays the hichiriki

I was at the Royal College of Art at this time and was exposed to a great deal of performance art, which frequently employed savage and uncompromising musical elements designed to shock and defy cultural norms. Some “members” of this collective even eschewed any conventional melody harmony rhythm or timbre and were even a little contemptuous of mass-produced cultural artifacts. At this time I was working regularly with two great shakuhachi players: Clive Bell and Adrian Freedman.  Both had studied in Japan and introduced me to a variety of Japanese musics, one of which was Gagaku.

2) How many members were there and what instruments did they play?

I remember the first time i heard Gagaku. It was on record and i scrutinized the pictures on the album cover, woodcuts and drawings of Bugaku dancers perfoming in a palatial setting to a seated Emperor and his Court.  The two hichiriki (oboes) cut through the ceremonial air sounding like air-raid sirens or Amazonian cicadas calling in the night, set against the delicate inhaled and exhaled crushed chords of the two sho (mouthorgans).

Demonstration of how to play the sho (mouth organ)

It was a music which began without apparent tempo, but is in fact lead by the long breaths in and out of the sho, and counts almost exclusively in four. Long intense melodies were suspended within the exotic Japanese Imperial Court tonality over sudden punctuations from a small bright shoko (gong) played with 2 horn beaters; a brittle tight kakko (hour glass shaped drum) played with 2 wooden sticks, and a thunderous tsuri-daiko (bass drum on a stand) hit with a padded stick.

Amid this wailing and clatter I heard the gentle plucked arpeggios of the gakuso (13 stringed zither) and the almost tuneless thwack of wood on wood and gut string which is the biwa (four stringed lute), sounding more like a shuttle on a loom than a guitar. Playing in the same register, and rubbing in microtonal intervals with the two hichiriki were the two ryuteki, (transverse wooden flutes) which created ear splitting difference tones that swooped across the frequency range like the electronic signal one might expect to hear if scrolling though a short wave radio receiver.

By the end of the first piece I had been transported back to eighth-century Japan. The music cut through me like a knife and dissected my brain. ‘Wow!’ we laughed. ‘How about trying to play that?’ we joked. But the joke proved the seed of reality, and apart from myself and Adrian Freedman (hichiriki) the circle of friends that came together to form the group were: Hugh Nankivell and Andrew Okrzeja (sho), Clive Bell and Clair Placito (ryuteki), Melissa Holding (gakuso), Stuart Jones (biwa), Jackie Brooks (shoko), Glen Fox (kakko), and Adrian Lee (tsuri-daiko).

3) How did people get their instruments and learn the music?
Jackie and myself bought fabrics, red silk shot with gold, and trimmings, and copied the designs of the gagaku costume and made one for each of the band. We made hats too and thought we looked amazing!. We went to Ray Mans, the Chinese musical instrument shop in Soho, and bought copies and Chinese equivalents of all the instruments of the orchestra.

Melissa already had a koto so we adapted that. Adrian and myself transcribed the music of several classic gagaku pieces, including Etenraku (which means: ‘music from the highest heaven’).  We booked a room to rehearse at SOAS (School of Oriental and African Studies, part of London University).  We even asked a photographer to make a publicity photo of us all, posing with our instruments.

Procession of gagaku musicians at a shrine wedding in Japan

Musicians seated on the ground play celestial music, spanning the gap between earth and heaven

 

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For Part Two of this article, please click here.

The wonder of trees

Tied to nature: Shinto honours the spirit inherent in exceptional trees

 

There was an excellent Ted talks event in Kyoto today, which I was fortunate to attend.  For those who don’t know, Ted stands for technology, entertainment and design, and presentations are limited to 18 minutes or less.  There are currently 1500 presentations available on the internet (see here).

Sacred tree at the top of Kurama hill, symbol of the life-force for the way it has overcome adversity despite having a blasted, hollow trunk

The Kyoto event was excellent, both in terms of venue, organisation and presentations.  The last of the talks was probably the most inspiring, and I guess that is why the organisers saved it till the end.

In his eighteen-minute spot John Gathright talked of how he has been using tree-climbing as therapy for disabled and emotionally disturbed children. It all started off when he helped a paraplegic climb 78 meters up the fifth largest tree in the world (a sequoia in California).  It was such an overwhelming experience for her that she and her assistants had to spend the night in the tree.  It was, quite literally, the high point of her life.

The results Gathright has achieved with his system of ropes and harnesses is remarkable.  Child abuse victims who had withdrawn within themselves opened up and smiled as they sat on high branches.  Wheelchair dependent children rediscovered the joy of life.  One even proclaimed, ‘I’m not a cripple, I’m a hero.’

The idea of using tree-climbing as therapy stemmed from the speaker’s reverence for trees, which consists of ‘awe and gratitude’ – two feelings at the core of Shinto.  ‘Trees are our friends, teachers and doctors,’  he said.  Like Wordsworth he sees lessons to be learnt from nature, but unlike the poet he has acted to extend the benefits of their restorative power to those less fortunate.  His Treehab organisation runs therapy outings, in which children are refreshed by the spirit of the trees they ascend.

Gathright spoke repeatedly of the generosity of trees and of how much they give to their visitors.  He spoke too of how they never give up, not even when struck by lightning or disease, but continue to struggle upwards towards the light.  Funnily enough, it was the exact same message as I’d seen written up on a noticeboard at Kifune Shrine this week.

In an interesting study of people’s reactions to tree-climbing, including stress and sense of well-being, it was found that people who loved the trees they climbed got the most physical and psychological benefit.  The experience provides a new way to relate to nature, and to the world at large.  ‘It changes people,’ said the speaker emphatically.

Climbing trees, it turns out, really does give a different perspective on life.

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For more about John Gathright and the Tree Climbing Project, see http://www.treeclimbing.jp

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A recent Japanese study explored the benefits of visiting wooded areas — a practice known as shinrun-yoku in Japan. Of 541 volunteers, those who regularly spent time in forested areas experienced the biggest reductions in hostility and depression. And it didn’t matter how lush the forests were, nor how long the study participants spent there; just visiting the tree-rich areas had a noticeable effect.

Hugging trees is good for you (courtesy iVillage)

 

Revering trees can be good for the soul

Jomon artifacts

Jomon museum artifacts are being put together in a stunning photography collection (this and the photos of figurines below courtesy Tadahiro Ogawa)

 

New light on Jomon millennia
by EDAN CORKILL  Japan Times SEP 28, 2013   (Abridged version below; for the original article, click here.)

The Jomon Period of Japanese history is so shrouded in the mists of time that any bid to fathom its secrets stretches even the usual astonishing bounds of prehistoric archeology.

Yet as amateurs and experts alike have continued unearthing and studying 2,000- to 10,000-year-old examples of Jomon pottery and stone tools for more than a century, the pieces of the puzzle are gradually coming together.

The fascinating dogū figures of Jomon times

It is only six years ago, for instance, that the discovery of unusually large beans — or the holes where they had been encased in the clay of Jomon Period pots — provided concrete evidence that people living in these islands so very long ago had been able to domesticate certain plant species.

For the last 30 years Tadahiro Ogawa is one who has dedicated himself to photographing Jomon Period artifacts — and to date he has around 30,000 of them in his picture archive.

In fact the Tokyo resident has photographed at pretty much every one of the more than 500 museums nationwide that stocks objects from the Jomon Period — which is conventionally dated at from around 12,000 B.C. to 300 B.C.

What are we nowadays to make, for example, of giant cooking pots standing 60 or 70 cm tall and covered with richly ornate decorations — some of them representative of animals such as snakes and frogs; others, to our eyes at least, completely abstract?

And then there are even less practical objects: three-dimensional depictions of animals or people. Some of the dogū, as such figurines are called in Japanese, have broad, triangular-shaped heads and large eyes that seem to have more in common with science-fiction aliens than people.

A female figurine - used in fertitlity rites?

Through generations past, the very oddness of Jomon pottery has tended to define it in the public’s mind. Thus it was appropriated by mid-20th-century artist Taro Okamoto, who saw in it a reference point to postulate a “new” and uniquely Japanese form of visual expression.

But, as far as photographer Ogawa is concerned, such deliberate mystification of Jomon Period culture has an unfortunate legacy, in that it has planted in the minds of contemporary Japanese the notion that the people inhabiting these isles back then were quintessentially different and distant — so much so that they belonged to an utterly separate world.

Ogawa’s primary goal in his tireless work is to bridge the gulf of time and comprehension; to create a window through which to behold a people many thousands of years ago who were not so different from Japanese today.
“The fact is, we Japanese are connected to these people by blood, and they lived normal lives, hunting and making objects such as these in the same natural environment that we inhabit now,” the 70-year-old told The Japan Times.

“They had hopes and fears and complex lives. And if you look closely enough at the objects they left behind, you can get a sense of what those were.”

The distinctive style of Jomon pottery

The exhibition rooms at the Matsumoto City Museum of Archeology, tucked into the mountains of Nagano Prefecture, have dozens of dogū on display. The little clay figurines and faces, most between 10 cm and 20 cm in height, stand in glass cases alongside other types of Jomon artifacts — large pots, stone tools and so on.

Made of clay and having survived for up to 7,000 years buried in shallow soil — many in Nagano’s valley floors — the dogū are about as resilient as any artifact you’ll find in a museum. Hence there is no need for air conditioning, or even precise humidity control. Indeed, more than one glass display case seemed to have recently acquired new occupants in the form of dead insects.

“Some of these dogū I shot a few years ago, but only in black and white,” Ogawa said. “Today I’ll shoot this one, that one and that row at the back.”  A museum assistant began opening the cabinets and transferring the pieces to paper-lined trays.

Ogawa next moved to another room, where four large plastic crates were soon opened to reveal hundreds more of the little dogū creatures — all lined up in rows on beds of tissue paper like oddly shaped chocolates in a box — but prehistoric confections that still keep their roles in long-gone human lives secret from even the most erudite of scholars.

One of the mysterious dogū figurines

For all the resemblance of many to beings from outer space, though, others are easy to read as depictions of pregnant women, ones giving birth or nursing small children.

Takashi Tsutsumi, chief curator of the Asama Jomon Museum in Nagano Prefecture, who was accompanying Ogawa during his shoot, explained that “the average lifespan of Jomon people was around 30 years, so childbirth and raising children were the central events around which their lives revolved. Naturally, therefore, they made icons symbolizing both fertility and virility.”

Other small clay figurines depict the kinds of animals that Jomon people hunted — wild boar, bears and salmon among them. In dull white boxes, raked by harsh lighting that erases their textures, such objects tend to seem childlike — much like crude lumps of hand-molded clay. But, as soon became apparent when they were photographed from the right angle in proper lighting, they come alive.

The first piece to be photographed was a small head, which Ogawa said was from the late Jomon Period. After carefully placing it on the paper he spent several minutes adjusting multiple lights and mirrors to achieve the lighting effect he sought.  Suddenly what had been a small and apparently inconsequential clay lump leapt to life as shade and shadow brought out a proud forehead and ramrod-straight nose.

Jomon man (in the National History of Science Museum in Ueno, Tokyo)

The second piece was actually two — both halves of a figurine that Ogawa decided he would reassemble for the photograph. “This was excavated broken like this in two parts, so for the archeologists it is important that it be displayed in that same, broken arrangement. But for me the important thing is to re-create what it was like in real life — not as some dead relic,” he said.

Ogawa’s entree into the Jomon world came about by way of an express train and a particularly unusual piece of equipment known as a slit camera.  That was because, back in the early 1980s when he was working as a photographer for news magazines, a friend once asked him for advice. “At first I tried things like Grecian urns, but I soon found myself drawn to Jomon pottery. The decoration wasn’t uniform, so it seemed to have so much depth,” he said.

In addition to its dogū figurines, Jomon pottery is well known for giant, ornately decorated pots and pitchers. Ogawa soon began experimenting with how to shoot such objects and, to his surprise, he found that the response in archeological circles was extremely positive.

“No one had ever achieved such clear photographs of the full circumference of Jomon pots,” explained Masafumi Ono, an archeologist with the Kofu City Board of Education in Yamanashi Prefecture. “To be able to see the full pattern so clearly really allowed the study of these bowls to progress.”

Joman woman (National History of Science, Ueno, Tokyo)

And yet, despite his years of experience with Jomon pottery, Ogawa is wary of wading into arguments over why the objects were made or how they were used.

“To be honest, when I first started doing this I assumed the big pots were for keeping seeds or something like that in them. But when I mentioned that, the academics all laughed — because there was no agriculture in the Jomon Period. It turns out they used these big ungainly pots for cooking!” he said.

Tsutsumi explained further: “The point about the Jomon people was that they were hunter-gatherers — but they were sedentary. They had stone tools so they could cut trees and build houses, and there was enough natural bounty around them — acorns and other plants, wild boar, deer and salmon — that they could more or less remain in the same place.

If they were mobile, moving with migrating animals for example, then they wouldn’t have made such decorative pottery — especially nothing as big and heavy as these large pots,” he said.

While the Jomon people do seem to have also domesticated some species of beans and sesame for its seeds, they did not harvest those at any scale. The end of the Jomon Period is in fact demarcated by the emergence of proper farming techniques — probably following the arrival of a new population from mainland China around 2,000 years ago. That influx of new blood also coincides with a marked simplification of the pottery being made as the emphasis seemingly shifted from decoration to utility. As a result, pottery from the subsequent Yayoi Period that roughly spanned 300 B.C. to A.D. 300 is the Modernism to the Jomon Period’s Art Nouveau.

“The arrival of agriculture also meant the birth of the concept of ownership, as food could then be hoarded,” Tsutsumi pointed out, adding that this led to a phenomenon familiar to us all today: conflict.

“If you look at graves from the Yayoi Period, you find skeletons without heads or with severe injuries. Such things are very rare in Jomon Period graves,” Tsutsumi said. “In the Jomon Period they of course had the stress of having to find food every day, but it may have been the last time in history that society in Japan was really peaceful.”

It thus seems likely that the explanation for the wondrous oddity of Jomon Period pottery lies in the geographical, social and environmental conditions of the time, which enabled people to follow a little-changed sedentary hunter-gatherer lifestyle of relative abundance for an unimaginable span of more than 8,000 years.

“That meant that for many many generations they were coexisting in close proximity and in a natural state with the bears, boars, snakes and turtles that you see depicted in their pottery,” Ogawa said. “I think the depth of their relationship with nature is the one thing that really becomes clear as you look closely at these objects.”

Then, after looking closely indeed at a large pot wreathed in a complex snake motif, this remarkable “prehistoric photographer” carefully measured its dimensions and set up his lights. After that, it was really as if each serpentine coil came elegantly to life.

“In contemporary society, of course, we have completely lost that deep connection with nature — you can see that in the damage caused by the (Great East Japan) earthquake and tsunami of two years ago,” he said. “Hopefully, some people will be reminded of that lost connection through my photographs.

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Tadahiro Ogawa’s latest book, “Jomon Bijutsukan (Jomon Art Museum),” was published this year and features more than 500 photographs of Jomon Period artifacts. It is available from museum bookshops, Amazon.co.jp and other outlets.  An online translation of the book is also being produced at jomonarts.com.

Tadahiro Ogawa, seen at work in museums in Nagano Prefecture believes really good photos of Jomon artifacts can greatly help today's Japanese connect with their forebears. (photo by EDAN CORKILL)

Kurama to Kibune 2) Kifune Jinja

Lining up to pray: people queue before the sparkling new Worship Hall, complete with reflecting panels which heighten the effect of the abundance of greenery

 

From Kurama Temple, the path leads up to the top of the hill where there are a number of subshrines and an area of knotted tree roots.  One of the subshrines (Mao-den) houses the meteorite on which the deity Mao-son descended to earth.  Another one houses a sacred tree blasted by lightning, whose continuing vigor is seen as a striking example of the life-force.

The 84 steps lined with lanterns leading up to Kifune Jinja

Descending into the town of Kibune, one soon comes across the long stone staircase lined with lanterns leading to Kifune Shrine (the shrine calls itself Kifune, though everyone refers to it as Kibune which is the name of the town).  Shrine lore claims a foundation date in the fifth century, though it’s impossible to know for sure.

The founding myth has to do with a shamanic princess called Tamayorihime no mikoto (Spirit-Inviting Maiden), who sailed upstream in a yellow boat determined to find the source of the Kamo river.  (The Chinese characters used to write the name of the shrine used to be Yellow Boat, but is now Precious Boat.)  She stopped at a spring, the river source, and it’s said that her boat lies buried where the Okunoin shrine now stands.

Dedicated to the rain-god Takaokami no mikoto, the shrine has close connections with all matters to do with water.  It was ranked among the top 16 imperial shrines in Heian times, and envoys were sent here whenever there was a drought or flooding.  Amongst the offerings were black horses to bring rain, or white horses for clear weather.

The shrine’s watery connections are maintained by fortune papers which have to be floated on water in order to be read.  Wherever one looks, there seems to be water cascading down from the hillside, and the sound of the river is ever-present.

Another element was added by the visit of the Heian poet, Izumi Shikibu, who visited Kifune to pray for reconciliation with her husband.  It gave the shrine a reputation for promoting ‘good relationships’ (enmusubi).  It seems that it also led to curses being put on failed lovers, for women would visit ‘at the hour of the ox’ (2 am) to nail a straw doll effigy to a tree.  (See Jishu Shrine for more about this practice.)

The Haiden (Worship Hall) and Honden (Sanctuary) were renewed in 2005 and look resplendent in the sunshine.  Both the main shrine and the Okunoin have a ‘rock-boat’ in reference to the founding myth (gods travel by rockboat, for spirit and rock are closely associated.  (For more on this, click here.)

From the shrine it’s a 30-minute walk down to the small railway line, or one can take the shuttle bus if it’s running.  Kibune is popular in summer months when busloads arrive for the popular – and expensive – meals served on platforms over the rapids (prices start at Y5500).  The shrine might not rank as high these days as it did in Heian times, but it’s probably more popular than it’s ever been.

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Information is drawn from Cali and Dougill’s Shinto Shrines, published this year by the University of Hawaii Press. For a previous blog entry on Kibune, click here.

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Al fresco.... dining out next to the rapids of the Kibune River

 

The shrine's most sacred tree is a Judas tree (katsura). It's said to symbolise the spirit of Shinto by the many branches reaching upwards to refresh themselves with the power of kami

 

The rock boat at the main shrine, put up in the twentieth century to honour the founding myth

 

Rock boat at the Okunoin shrine, which was donated by a local gardener in recent times

 

A baby tries its luck with floating his paper fortune slip

 

Walking from Kurama to Kibune, taking in all the sights and the wonderful nature, can be exhausting!

Kurama to Kibune 1) Yuki Jinja

The famous Kurama Tengu that welcomes visitors at the small railway station

 

There are so many must-sees and must-dos in Kyoto, but one of the favourites with people who actually live here is the Kurama to Kibune walk in the northern hills.  It’s two and half hours up and over the Kurama hill, and takes in two shrines, a temple and some gorgeous nature.

Yuki Jinja is dwarfed by the expansive confines of Kurama Temple within which it sits.  The Meiji Restorationists sought to separate Shinto and Buddhism, but here is a classic example of just how integrated the two used to be.  You can’t visit the shrine without entering the temple grounds.

Kurama Temple has a 'power spot' in front of the main building where people queue to pray

Kurama Temple is ancient, historic and has several points of note:

* Founded around 770, it used to be a Tendai temple but is now independent in a sect of its own.
* It’s where Ushiwakamaru (the young Yoshitsune) was sent to train as a priest in the twelfth century.
* While at Kurama, Yoshitsune trained in martial arts with tengu (possibly warrior-monks from Mt Hiei)
* One of the temple’s three deities is Mao-son, who descended to earth from Venus (probably a meteorite)
* The temple is the birthplace of reiki massage; the founder Mikao Usui received the basics while on retreat here
* Recently Kurama has benefited from the power-spot boom and increasingly has a pilgrimage feel

 

Entrance to Yuki Jinja is through the main gate of Kurama Temple and halfway up the hill

 

Yuki Jinja dates back to 940, when kami in the Imperial Palace were moved here during a time of natural disasters in the capital.  As a Tendai temple, Kurama nourished kami and the spirit of place.  With its lush woods and ever-flowing streams, the whole hillside speaks of the beneficence of nature: kami nature and buddha nature happily coincide.  (For an earlier report on talks about harmony with nature given by the respective heads of Kurama Temple and Kibune Jinja, click here.)

The shrine is famous for hosting the Kurama Torch Festival on Oct 22 every year.  It’s said to recreate the torch-fires that were lit to greet the original arrival of the kami.  The whole village of Kurama takes part with the main street lit up by the flames.  It’s said to be good luck if the sparks land on you, though maybe not such good luck for your clothes…

The Haiden (Worship Hall) was rebuilt in 1607 by Hideyori (son of Hideyoshi) and is said to have an unusual construction style divided into two rooms.  The stone guardian dogs are designated an important cultural property. But the most striking feature is the remarkable 800-year old sacred cedar that stands at the side of the steps leading up to the shrine.  It’s magnificent.  Standing at the base, you feel humbled by the sheer height of the towering tree as it shoots straight upwards in its determination to touch the sky.

As the various signboards suggest, the whole ethos of the hillside complex – temple and shrine alike – is directed towards the blessings and wonder of nature.  Here is one of the supreme examples.

Worship in front of the shrine, with tengu fortune slips offered for Y400.

The ema votive tablets at Yuki Jinja, featuring the sacred tree

Sacred tree soaring high after 800 years of growth

Looking up towards the gods

Dosojin (border kami)

Example of a Dosojin couple on a stone marker

Green Shinto friend, Mark Schumacher, has produced an informative overview of Dosojin for his onmark website about Japanese Religions.  Dosojin are protective markers that used to be placed at village boundaries, often with fertility symbols to encourage the growth of crops.

Mark’s page has sections on the Shinto tradition, the Buddhist tradition, and stone carvings, together with an annotated list of links to sites with dozens of photos.  What follows below is the Shinto section of the webpage.

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http://www.onmarkproductions.com/html/dosojin-stone-markers.shtml

The Shintō Tradition

Dōsojin refers to Shintō deities of roads and borders. Also called Dōrokujin 道陸神 and Sae no Kami or Sai no Kami 障の神・塞の神・道祖神 (with “sae / sai” meaning to obstruct or keep out the evil spirits). These deities reside in stone markers found at village boundaries, in mountain passes, and along country byways. In urban areas today, dōsojin stone markers are often placed at street corners and near bridges to protect pedestrians. As the deity of the village border, the dōsojin wards off evil spirits and catastrophes, and protects the village from evil outside influences. As deity of the road, the dōsojin protects travelers, pilgrims, and those in “transitional” stages. These stone markers may bear only inscriptions, but often they depict human forms, in particular the images of a man and woman — the latter manifestation is revered as the kami (deity) of marriage and fertility. In some localities, the dōsojin is worshiped as the kami of easy childbirth.

A Dosojin couple, with obvious fertility implications.

Says site contributor Dr. Gabi Greve: “The Takasago Legend 高砂伝説 is one of the oldest in Japanese mythology. An old couple — his name is Jō 尉 and her name is Uba 媼 — known together as Jō-to-Uba 尉と媼, are said to appear from the mist at Lake Takasago. The old man and his wife are usually portrayed talking happily together with a pine tree in the background. Signifying, as they do, a couple living in perfect harmony until they grow old together, they have long been a symbol of the happiness of family life. The story is portrayed in a famous Nō play called “Takasago no Uta.”

Japan’s popular Fire Festivals, held around January 15 each year, are known as dōsojin festivals. Shrine decorations, talismans, and other shrine ornaments used during the local New-Year holiday are gathered together and burned in bonfires. They are typically piled onto bamboo, tree branches, and straw, and set on fire to wish for good health and a rich harvest in the coming year.

The practice of burning shrine decorations has many names, including Sai-no-Kami Matsuri 道祖神祭, Sagichō 左義長, Seikisūhai 性器崇拝 and Dondo Yaki どんど焼. According to some, the crackling sound of the burning bamboo tells the listener whether the year will be lucky or not. Children throw their calligraphy into the bonfires — and if it flies high into the sky, it means they will become good at calligraphy.

Dosojin fertility couple from Nagano, where the stone markers can still be found by roadsides

 

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