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Teeuwen on Shinto

The Dutch scholar Mark Teeuwen, currently professor at the University of Oslo

‘What Used to be Called Shinto’ runs the provocative title of a paper by academic Mark Teeuwen (in Japan Emerging, ed. Karl Friday, 2012).  In clear and systematic fashion, he questions the notion of Shinto as ‘Japan’s indigenous religion’ by arguing that Amaterasu’s prominence not only owes itself to continental influences, but was the product of seventh-century manipulation by a usurping emperor.  In these terms Amaterasu herself, and the religion which champions her, can neither be called ‘indigenous’ nor said to exhibit continuity from early times.

After emphasising Japan’s ancient links with the Korean peninsula, Teeuwen points out the diversity of pre-Buddhist Japan, rendering the idea of a single belief system ‘unthinkable’.  He also demonstrates the unreliable nature of the mythology in the Kojiki (712) and Nihon shoki (720).  One example is the famous story of tenson korin (descent from heaven), when Amaterasu sends off her grandson to rule over earth.  In the Nihon shoki, it’s Takami-musubi, Ninigi’s maternal grandfather, who performs this function.

The opening of the rock door covering the cave in which Amaterasu hides herself. Following this, she largely fades from the mythology.

Amaterasu plays little part in the subsequent mythology, until it’s mentioned that the Yamato leader, Sujin, was troubled by the presence of two competing kami in his palace – Amaterasu and Yamato Okunitama (Great Spirit of the land of Yamato).  History tells how one was eclipsed by the other, and Teeuwen ascribes this to the later championing of the sun-goddess by Emperor Tenmu (c.631-686).

The Japanese leader only came to power by beating his nephew in the Jinshin War (673), having prayed to Amaterasu for victory beforehand.  Since she was associated with metalwork as well as weaving, her role in the production of weapons made her a war goddess as well as one of creativity (not unlike the Greek goddess, Athena).

A key point made by Teeuwen is that Emperor Tenmu was fostered by the Owari clan, whose ancestor was Ame no Kaguyama, in charge of mirror-making and metalwork.  In the championing of Amaterasu, Tenmu could have been acting in alliance with and out of allegiance to his adopted clan. It was in his reign, and that of his widow-successor Empress Jito, that the cult of Ise was initiated, and it was under Tenmu too that orders were given for the compilation of a ‘correct’ mythology.

Rather than Shinto as such, Teeuwen suggests that the resulting collection of myths belonged to a court cult known as jingi (heavenly and earthly deities).  This had nothing to do with the beliefs of ordinary folk, but was aimed at boosting the prestige of the emperor and his allies.  The central idea was that the emperor as heavenly descendant of Amaterasu would patronise all the earthly kami of the realm by sending them gifts, thereby confirming his authority over them.

The final part of Teeuwen’s analysis – for me, the weakest part – is a claim that Amaterasu underwent a gender change at the time of Empress Jito.  However, there is no evidence to back up the argument, which is based upon the assumption that Empress Jito needed a divine role model for her intention to pass authority onto her grandson.  This goes along with Teeuwen’s assertion that the sun is ‘obviously yang and therefore male’.  However, it seems unlikely yin and yang would have played a part in the personifications of nature prior to the sixth and seventh centuries.  Moreover, the sun is female in many cultures, notably in Mongolian shamanism which may have played a vital part in  Japan’s religious development.

There are in fact good reasons for supposing Amaterasu to be indelibly female.  For one thing, she is associated with weaving, which was the preserve of aristocratic women.  For another it’s known that shamaness-rulers like Himiko played a leading part in ancient Japan and were seen as imbued with magical powers. Perhaps in ancient times a miko shamaness was revered as being as radiant as the sun, not unlike Louis XIV, and with death and the passage of time she became conflated with the very sun itself.

“The Shinto view of a purely indigenous Japanese antiquity is a myth,’ concludes Teeuwen decisively.  One has the feeling that he’s here trying to bury the whole Nativist notion of an ancient and purely Japanese religion in order to get on with the question that is vexing him: why did the Japanese court not copy Chinese models, but invent a ritual and mythology of its own?

This is by far the clearest account I’ve read yet of the argument in academia about whether Shinto as such existed in ancient times. It surely places Teeuwen in the very forefront of a debate which is certain to rumble on for years. This short paper (11 pages) is intellectually stimulating, refreshingly clear of jargon, and is much to be recommended.

 

A modern image of Amaterasu. Did she undergo a gender change at some time?

Dogu exhibition (Miho Museum)

 

Ensui Dogu, from late-middle Jomon, in Yamanashi Prefecture (taken from Jomon Ceramics Now website)

 

Miho Museum near Lake Biwa is holding a special exhibition of ancient clay figurines known as Dogu, dating from literally thousands of years ago.  They’re weird and fascinating, possibly early fertility figures.  The maple colours at this time of year, together with I.M. Pei’s stunning architecture, mean that the museum is worth a visit in its own right anyway: the exhibition is a plus.

The museum is run by people from the little known Shinji Shumeikai sect, who grow organic vegetables, practice a form of healing, and follow an aesthetic form of spirituality as conceived by their founder, Mihoko Koyama (1910-2003).  Part  of her philosophy was that exposure to works of beauty helps better one’s character and well-being.  (They’ve got a British operation, and I was able to visit their small organic farm near Avebury this summer, together with video-maker Robert MacNaughton who is working on a documentary about Japan’s Creation Myth.)

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Dogu in the Musée Guimet

Autumn Special Exhibition: Saturday, September 1 to Sunday, December 9
” Dogū, a Cosmos of Ancient Clay Figurines ” (North Wing)

Where did the strange forms of dogū,or the day figurines from Japan’s prehistoric Jōmon period (14,000 BCE-300 BCE), come from? Some have three fingers, raised arms, amazing physiques, strange expressions, traces of red pigment, or no face. Who or what were they?

If we today could travel in time and meet the people of Jōmon period, we would likely be amazed by their great skill and energy. Making even one Jōmon (cord-patterned) earthenware was not merely a matter of kneading and firing clay. First, the clay had to be found, tempered with sand or other materials, wedged, decorated with amazing patterns, dried, and finally fired.

In addition, these were not fired in kilns but out in the field so the larger the piece, the more ingenurity was required to maintain uniform overall temperature. Such earthenware pieces are rarely found in large quantities.

Figure in the Nagoya City Museum

The Jōmon people also made lacquerware. These objects included sake bottles and cups, earrings, bracelets, and combs that skillfully incorporated red and black lacquer, and beautiful accessories made of decorative beads strung together with red-lacquered string. The upper echelons of Jōmon society were quite fashionable, indeed!

Dogū figurines played a major role in Jōmon festivals. This autumn, many important examples of dogū from all over Japan, including National Treasure-designated Jōmon Venus and the earliest dogū found in Shiga Prefecture, will be assembled at Miho Museum. Please look forward to discovering who they were.

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Miho Museum, (0748) 82-3411, 300 Momodani, Shigaraki-cho, Koka-shi, Shiga-ken; 10 a.m.-5 p.m. ¥1,000. Closed Mon.

It’s a 20-min. taxi ride from Shigaraki Station, (Shigaraki Kogen Railway Line).  It takes about 80 mins from Kyoto, and there are details about how to get there on this website.

There’s a good article about the museum, its philosophy and the Shumei sect at this website.

Autumn colours at Miho Museum (from the Miho website)

Yoshino’s secrets

Yoshino's shugendo temple, Kinpusen-ji

 

On a recent outing to Yoshino, south of Nara, I discovered that there were more World Heritage Sites than I had  realised.  Readers of the blog might remember that I had compiled a list of shrines recognised by Unesco’s World Heritage recognition scheme (see here).  I’ve now had to add three more, secreted away in the folds of Yoshino’s wooded slopes.

The reason for the discrepancy is the curious manner of World Heritage inscription.  Itsukushima Shrine for instance is recognised as a World Heritage Site in its own right.  But Kamigamo Jinja and Shimogamo Jinja are recognised as among the 17 properties belonging to the World Heritage Site known officially as “Historic Monuments of Ancient Kyoto (Kyoto, Uji and Otsu Cities)”.

The situation is even more complicated in the case of Yoshino, for the area is one of three different parts of the officially designated World Heritage site known as”Sacred Sites and Pilgrimages in the Kii Mountain Range”.  It covers the Kumano Sanzan Shrines; Mt. Koya’s Shingon temples; as well as pilgrimage-related sites in Yoshino. It’s quite a challenge to get round them all, for they are far-flung and not well connected.

Garden detail at Yoshimizu, with Kinpusenji behind

Yoshino
Within Yoshino, there are a number of listed properties – eight in all.  These include the main shugendo temple of Kinpusenji, with its wonderful Zao Hall and stunning statuary.  But there are also three shrines: Yoshimizu Shrine; Yoshino Mikumari Shrine; and Kimpu Shrine.  Last week I made a special trip to see them all.

Of the three, Yoshimizu is the most well-known and the most visited.  It was founded in the mid-7th century as a Buddhist temple, and only became a shrine in 1875.  Emperor Go-Daigo lived here for a while, and Hideyoshi  came to view the cherry blossoms.

The aristocratic connections mean it is full of art and artistic touches.  There’s a fine view of Kinpusenji, a nicely laid out garden, and the priest gives instruction in Onmyodo practice which is an unusual touch.  I’ll make a separate posting about that.

 

Yoshimizu shrine view

 

Yoshino Mikumari Shrine
The other two shrines are less well-known and less visited.  Yoshino Mikumari Shrine has an unusual architecture, for there is a long haiden (worship hall) along one side of a rectangle facing a long honden (sanctuary). The latter consists of shrines for three separate kami, which instead of being separate, as is usual elsewhere, are all joined together in one long row.  The priest’s elderly mother who acted as caretaker claimed it was the longest honden in Japan.

The shrine was supposedly founded in the late 7th century, and rebuilt in 1605.  It’s said to have a special power for couples wanting children, yet oddly for a shrine with the status of a listed World Heritage Site there were few visitors.  Indeed, while I was there, I only saw one other person.  The priest’s mother said that few people bothered to come, and that the only thing they’d had out of the World Heritage status was the certificate.  The shrine was certainly of interest, but in what way could it be said to merit a World Heritage listing?

Grand entrance to the Yoshino Mikimaru Shrine, suggestive of rich patronage in the past

Yoshino Mikimaru Shrine, with its long haiden on the left and honden on the right

 

Kinpu Shrine and the Yoshitsune Kakure-do
Things were even more puzzling at Kimpu Shrine, two kilometers further along the very narrow road that winds its way up the hill.  It’s near a viewing spot, to which occasional groups of tourists travel by bus.  At the small nearby shrine, however, not only were there no visitors while I was there, but there was no one in attendance or any sign of a shrine office.  Nor did it seem of much interest, save that in the woods nearby was a Yoshitsune Hidden Hall used for ascetic practice.  It was securely locked, preventing ingress, but a noticeboard said that ascetics use it to shut themselves in complete darkness and face down the demons that emerge.

Yoshitsune Kakure-do, named after the twelfth-century warrior who supposedly hid here in the woods while on the run from his shogun half-brother, Yoritomo

 

I was intrigued by the World Heritage status, and determined to find out why such an apparently insignificant shrine should have been deemed worthy of inclusion by Unesco.  It just so happens that there’s a huge Unesco conference taking place in Kyoto at the moment, which is the closing event of a whole series of gatherings to celebrate the 40th anniversary of the Word Heritage Convention.  I’ve been fortunate to attend as a member of the press, and was able to put my questions to a number of Japanese delegates from the Ministry of Foreign Affairs and the Agency for Cultural Affairs.

Trail to Yoshitsune Kakure-do. The shrine's links with ancient pilgrim routes may hold the key to its World Heritage status.

Tracking down a person with overall responsibility for World Heritage Sites in Japan turns out to be a futile task, because responsibility is broken down into separate specialised areas.  Unesco matters belong to the domain of the Foreign Ministry.  Woods and natural sites are dealt with by the Ministry of the Environment.  Art and cultural matters fall within the remit of the Ministry of Education and Culture, though even there architectural matters might be dealt with by a different department than paintings, for example.  In trying to tie down someone willing to answer my questions, it seemed I was going to be passed from bureaucrat to bureaucrat, with no final destination.

The Unesco Promotion Manager suggested I check with the official website, where the ratonale behind all the world’s 962 sites are included. She assured me that I would find what I was looking for there, but alas, all I could find was some general commentary about the Yoshino area but no specific rationale for Kinpu Shrine.  I suspect it’s notable for its historical role in pilgrimage, so I’ll have to check on that – but who with?  As ever, there lies the Japanese rub….

For those interested, here is the official World Heritage rationale for the Yoshino area:

Yoshino and Omine: this is the northern-most site near to Nara. The Yoshino or northern part of the site was by the mid-10th century known as the most important sacred mountain in Japan and its reputation had reached China. It was the object of mountain worship, Shinto, in the 7th and 8th centuries and later in the 8th century became one of the prime sacred places for the Shugen sect of ascetic Buddhism. Omine, the southern part, was also associated with the Shugen sect and, in particular, with ascetic practices connected to the harsh mountain environment. This site consists of groups of buildings in what is said to be a unique architectural style constructed as an embodiment of Shinto-Buddhist religious fusion.

View from Yoshimizu Shrine. In spring the hills are covered with cherry blossom.

 

Syncretism at Kimpusenji, where three different subshrines stand in the grounds of the shugendo temple with its Buddhist statuary

 

Another of Kimpusenji's Shinto shrines, decorated in Momoyama style

Tsukuba’s twin peaks

An article in the Daily Yomiuri by naturalist and cultural anthropologist, Kevin Short, talks of the mythological connections of Mt Tsukuba, not far from Tokyo.

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Mt. Tsukuba’s twin peaks represent Japan’s mythical married couple
Kevin Short / Daily Yomiuri Columnist

Twin peaks of Mt Tsukuba, at 877 and 871 meters

An old famous saying goes: “Mt. Fuji in the west and Mt. Tsukuba in the east.”  Although well under 1,000 meters, Mt. Tsukuba is a massive chunk of granite that rises dramatically out of the surrounding countryside. The distinctive ridgeline silhouette culminates in two separate peaks connected by a saddle ridge.

Located in southern Ibaraki Prefecture, just a short trip from central Tokyo, Mt. Tsukuba has since ancient times been considered a Reizan, or “Spirit Mountain,” and during the Edo period (1603-1867) it was a popular destination for pilgrimages. In recent times, it has been selected as one of Japan’s Hyakumeizan, or “100 Great Mountains.”

In Japanese folk cosmology, a pair of closely matched objects, such as trees or rocks, usually symbolizes a married couple. The twin peaks of Mt. Tsukuba represent Izanagi and Izanami, the nation’s first conjugal pair and creator deities, dispatched from the Celestial Realm to birth a new land and kingdom on the surface of the earth.

According to Japan’s classic mythology, in the beginning the earth was nothing more than a seething chaotic mess of swirling tides. Izanagi, a male kami, and Izanami, his wife, descended from the Celestial Realm to a sacred bridge floating over the chaos. Izanagi dipped a long-handled spear into the swirling mess. When he withdrew it, brine dripping from the tip solidified into an island.

Izanagi and Izanami stir the primordial matter

 

The two deities jumped down to the island. After some naive school-kid banter over comparative anatomy, they erected a pillar and danced around it in different directions. “Wow! Just look at this hot guy I found here!” exclaimed Izanami when the two met. “And just check out this foxy lady!” answered her partner. The two then made love, and following a few mishaps caused by the woman having spoken first, gave birth to the Japanese islands.

Viewed from the southwest, the left, or western peak of the mountain appears higher. This peak, called Nantai-san, or “Man’s Body Mountain,” embodies the spirit of the male creator deity Izanami. The right, or eastern peak, named Nyotai-san, or “Woman’s Body Mountain,” embodies that of Izanami. When the two peaks were actually measured, the female, at 877 meters, turned out to be six meters higher than the male.

Tsukuba-san Jinja, ancient shrine and starting point for hikes up the mountain

Visitors can be whisked up the slopes by cable car or ropeway, but those wishing to experience the mountain’s magnificent nature and culture firsthand should choose one of the many well-maintained and clearly marked hiking trails. For first-timers, the Shirakumobashi Trail, which switchbacks up the south face to reach the ridge east of Nyotai-san, is a good choice.

The road up starts off by ascending slowly along the Omote-sando, or main avenue of approach. On both sides, the street is lined with restaurants, hotels and stores that in the past catered to pilgrims but now serve hikers and tourists. The Shirakumobashi route veers off to the right at the bottom of the stone steps leading up to the Tsukubasan- jinja, which is the mountain’s main shrine.

 

The shrine which is believed to bestow marital harmony and conjugal bliss has become a popular place for traditional Japanese weddings. (photos courtesy of Photo Japan blog.)

 

Sacred Izumo (Tokyo exhibition)

The Daily Yomiuri has an article about a Tokyo National Museum exhibition currently being held on Izumo Taisha. (See end for details.)

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People line up to pray at Izumo Taisha

 

Izumo Taisha: Tree trunks pillar of heavenly treasures
Yasuo Hayakawa / Yomiuri Shimbun Staff Writer (Nov. 2, 2012)

Kannazuki, meaning the 10th month of the lunar calendar, literally means the month without gods because it is believed all the gods around the country go to Izumo Taisha shrine in Izumo, Shimane Prefecture, in that month. But in the Izumo region, in the eastern part of the prefecture, the same month is called Kamiarizuki, the month of the gods, as they all are believed to gather at the shrine then.

An exhibition, Treasures from Sacred Izumo, is being held through Nov. 25 at Tokyo National Museum in Ueno, where visitors can get a glimpse of Izumo as a sacred place from ancient times. The special exhibition marks the completion next year of renovation of the Shinto shrine, the first renovation in 60 years, and the 1,300th anniversary this year of the Kojiki (Chronicles of Ancient Matters), a record of myths about Japan’s origins.

Trunks that were unearthed and probably lashed together to make a huge pillar for the tall main building at Izumo (exhibit at Shimane Exhibition Hall next to Izumo Taisha)

 

“Uzubashira,” parts of three cypress trunks, are a main attraction at the venue. They are believed to have been used as part of a pillar for the main hall of Izumo Taisha, which was built in 1248 during the Kamakura period (1192-1333). The piece is about three meters around.

Okuninushi, chief god of the Izumo area

Carved on the back of it is a scale model of the shrine’s ancient main hall, which was 48 meters from ground to ceiling, that catches the eyes of visitors. The ceiling of the current main hall of the shrine is about 24 meters high. I can imagine people in ancient times looking up at the ceiling of the main hall as if it was floating in heaven.

The Kojiki, compiled in 712, says that after the chief god Okuninushi created his country, he handed control of it to Amaterasu, the grand goddess of the sun, at her request. He then asked for a place to live after his retirement–a shrine towering into the air with thick pillars and ornamental crossbeams in the gable. This is said to be the origin of Izumo Taisha. A drawing in the exhibition on which the Uzubashira pillar and the main hall are depicted resonate with the myth in Kojiki.

Myths about the Izumo region comprise about one-third of all the myths in the Kojiki. Why do the chronicles include so many myths about the region? Kikuo Morita, curator of the Shimane Museum of Ancient Izumo in Izumo, explained the background of the rich Izumo culture from the Yayoi period (ca 300 B.C.-ca A.D. 300). Seventy-nine bronze artifacts, including spearheads, unearthed from the Kojindani ruins in Izumo and the Kamo-Iwakura ruins in Unnan, the same prefecture, are on display in the exhibition.

Dotaku bell, unearthed in the Izumo region

Fifty-six of 358 doken bronze swords unearthed from the Kojindani ruins are also on display at the exhibition. The 358 swords are the most excavated at one site in Japan. Sixteen of 39 dotaku bell-shaped bronze vessels excavated from the Kamo-Iwakura ruins, which are thought to have been used for ceremonies, are also displayed. They, too, are the biggest collection of such artifacts unearthed at one site.

Dohoko socketed bronze spearheads found at Kojindani and on display are believed to have been produced in the northern part of Kyushu. And dotaku made with the same mold as that used for Kamo-Iwakura were found in the Kinki, Chugoku and Shikoku regions, indicating there was a wide exchange of bronzeware at that time. “Ancient culture, which emerged from exchanges with other regions, might have made Izumo a source of mysterious power,” Morita said.

Doka bronze halberds and magatama comma-shaped beads, also on display, are said to have been unearthed from underneath a large stone about 200 meters east of Izumo Taisha. It is clear that the surrounding area has been the home of special places from ancient times.

The sacred treasures and images on display at the venue speak volumes about why Izumo has been attracting public attention. Izumo was a sacred place in ancient times, is now a sacred place and will forever be a sacred place.

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“Treasures from Sacred Izumo: On the Occasion of the Renovation of Izumo Taisha Shrine and 1,300 Years of the Kojiki Chronicle” at the Tokyo National Museum. Open 9:30 a.m.- 5 p.m. (8 p.m. on Fridays). Closed on Mondays. Admission: 800 yen for adults; 600 yen for university students; 400 yen for high school students; free for middle school students and younger children. For more information, call (03) 5777-8600 or visit http://izumo2012.jp/

(For other entries about Izumo, click under the relevant category in the column to the right of this.)

 

Sacred Izumo coastline with its 'eight-fold clouds' where all the kami of Japan arrive every autumn for a month-long gathering

Shirakawa-go Hachiman Shrine

The distinctive gassho-zukuri housing of the World Heritage Site at Shirakawa-go

 

Shirakawa-go is a World Heritage Site in the Gifu mountains, notable for its gassho-zukuri (prayer-hands) housing, so-called because the tall roofs resemble hands at prayer.  The architecture developed because of the heavy snowfalls, which could crush normal roofs and which led to winter isolation from the outside world.  Within the tall, protective roofs there developed a unique culture based on extended families, with silkworm cultivation on the upper storeys and the making of gunpowder.  The area developed its own folksong and dance too.

The mountain setting and abundance of rainfall mean that clear fresh spring water gushes and gargles virtually everywhere you walk.  It’s the kind of setting in which Shinto thrives, for you feel that asking for the mercy of the kami and giving gratitude for their blessings are part of the natural order.  It was with great interest therefore that I explored Hachiman Shrine at Shirakawa-go.

The torii and main building of the Hachiman Shrine

 

The shrine was much older than I’d expected, for it was founded between 708-715 before the Nara Period of Japan’s history.  Saké brewing was long associated with the shrine, based on the freshest of fresh water from the melting snow.  It’s thought the shrine had to be relocated 800 years ago, following an avalanche.

The Shaka-do building in local 'prayer-hands' style

Physically, the shrine is distinctive for having a Shaka-do.  Shaka is the name of the historical Buddha, so it’s an anomaly to find a hall dedicated to him in a post-Meiji shrine.  It dates from the syncretic times of 1627, when the local lord had it constructed for his daughter who had fallen ill.  Rebuilt in 1808, the hall housed four Buddha statues which are now shrine treasures.

Another distinctive building is the Omikiden (Sake Hall).  Every year the shrine produces a special unrefined type of Doboroku saké.  Made in the invigorating cold of January, it is served at the Doboroku Festival for which the shrine is famous.  Other notable features include some stunning sacred cedar trees, as well as a water-basin that typifies the local culture’s closeness to nature.

Next to the shrine is the Doboroku Festival Museum, which houses exhibits about the annual pageant, held on October 14 and 15.  Lion dancers and flags parade past the village’s distinctive houses to announce ‘the arrival of the gods’ (kami no idemashi), following which the Doboroku saké is served at the shrine.  I tasted some, and believe me, it’s delicious, warming, and intoxicating!  Stronger than usual saké, a couple of helpings are quite enough to make you feel merry and in festival mood.

Lion dance as seen in the parade at the annual Doboroku Festival

 

Festival musicians in local attire

 

The oni are usually thought of as demons, but here lead the procession as the protectors of the kami

 

Recreation of the festival through silkworm cocoons

 

The priest bangs the drum during his morning ritual

 

Manga and anime fans come here, because the shrine was featured in an anime and computer game

 

The shrine's sacred cedar trees reach high, high, high up towards heaven

The shrine's water-basin seems to be moulded into the surroundings

Kawai Jinja at Shimogamo

Entrance to the shrine

My local shrine at Shimogamo has been busily doing itself up in recent years to appeal to tourists, and I was impressed on visiting one of its subshrines, Kawai Jinja, at the transformation that had taken place.  A new lick of paint, a small shop selling shrine artefacts, and lots of new signboards giving information about various aspects.

Its main selling point is that the kami specialises in women’s beauty, and the ema votive tablets are accordingly shaped like a mirror.  Female visitors are invited to draw their face on the front and write down a request to become more beautiful.  The ema are then displayed in front of the shrine.

Self-portraits of women wishing to be more beautiful

 

Kawai Jinja also celebrates its connection with Kamo no Chomei (1153-1216), author of the wonderful Hojoki (Account of a Ten-Foot Square Hut).  The shrine is currently celebrating the 800th anniversary of its publication, and the model of the hut in which Chomei lived has been adorned with a small reed fence.

Inside the hut as it might have been in Chomei's day

Chomei was born the son of a high-ranking Shimogamo priest, but dropped out for reasons that are unclear.  They are thought to centre around his resentment at being passed over for a position at Shimogamo he thought was rightfully his.  He had a reasonably successful career as a poet, working on the Shinkokinshu imperial anthology, before deciding in his mid-forties to become a Buddhist recluse.  For a while he lived in the village of Ohara at the foot of Mt Hiei, then moved to the hills of Hino south of Kyoto.

Chomei’s account of his life is delightful.  Some seven centuries before Walden, he wrote of the joys of a solitary life close to nature.  Transience and thoughts of death are never far from his mind. If I could quote from my book on Kyoto: A Cultural Guide...

The author describes his life in appealing terms.  it must have been lonely and at times miserable, but he makes it sound idyllic.  ‘The best friends one can have are flowers and moon, strings and pipe,’ he says of his solitude.  He uses fresh rainwater for tea and soup; eats home-grown mushrooms, herbs and fruit; and for exercise, he wanders to a nearby temple, or makes sorties to places of poetical interest. He plays music which harmonises with the rhythms of nature. There is a heart-warming quality to the reclusive Chomei because of the pleasure he takes in small things.  ‘My body is like a drifting cloud – I ask for nothing, I want nothing.  My greatest joy is a quiet nap; my only desire for this life is to see the beauties of the seasons.’

This modest man ends his account by wondering if he has not become too attached to his simple lifestyle.  ‘It is a sin for me now to love my little hut so much,’ he writes, ‘and my attachment to solitude may also be a hindrance to enlightenment.’  He had lived through the Gempei Wars when there had been fighting in the streets of Kyoto, but of all this he mentions not a word.  It is as if such transient affairs are of little concern to him.  Freed from ‘the dust of this world’, he was able to muse on other matters in his mountain retreat, and the reader is the beneficiary.

Model of Chomei's hut, set within Kawai Jinja

The Ten-Foot Square Hut, with fencing around it

The sanctuary at Kawai Jinja has small shrines set on a bed of pebbles, as at Ise

 

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