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Fom animist to ancestral kami

Early Shinto showed a marked shift from animism to ancestral deities, according to Mori Mizue in ‘Ancient and Classical Japan: The Dawn of Shinto’ (in Shinto – A Short History, 1998).

Statue of Amaterasu at Jingu Museum at Ise

The background concerns the eighth century, following the celebration of a sacral emperor in the mythologies of Kojiki (710) and the subsequent organising of shrines under a central authority.  In 768, an ambitious monk named Dōkyō made an audacious attempt to become emperor. As a result the establishment sought to strengthen the hereditary principle and the right to rule by blood lineage.  Many of the shrines originating in the late eighth and ninth century were consequently typified by family groupings and putative ancestral clan founders, shrines such as Kamo Jinja and Hie.  It was around this time too that Hachiman came to be identified as former Emperor Ojin.

The old kami were territorial, but these new kami were based on ties of blood.  Mori Mizue suggests the eighth-century verse anthology Manyoshu might have been compiled towards a similar end, in order to venerate the blood ties of the ruling class.  At the end of the century, under Emperor Kammu (who founded Heian-kyo), major shrines came to be seen as places to celebrate the ancestral spirits of those in authority, and by the time of the Engishiki (927) few of the old nature spirits are listed amongst the kami.

Kami started as nameless and formless spirits.  Personification followed, influenced by Buddhism.  Then came the transformation into ancestral spirits.  In such manner the spirit of the sun became Amaterasu, the weaver-queen.

Sacred groves

Sacred groves are the closest contemporary Shinto comes to environmentalism.  In an article in the Daily Yomiuri, naturalist Kevin Short writes of their history and the type of trees.  For the full article, click here.

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Sacred tree in a sacred grove

Last week, I spent several days cycling around the Hokuso countryside of northern Chiba Prefecture. I am currently working on a project to document many sacred groves that surround Shinto shrines and Buddhist temples in this region. At each site, I record the species and measure the circumference at chest height for all the big trees that form the grove.

In much of Japan, the sacred groves have been left uncut for close to 150 years. Over this period, many of the trees have grown to immense size, and in some cases the grove has developed into a small packet of primary forest. In western and southern Japan, including the south Kanto region, the original primary vegetation represented the extreme northern and eastern edge of the great Asian evergreen broad-leaved forests, a huge forest tradition distributed in a wide swath from the eastern Himalayas across China to the Pacific seaboard.

The area occupied by this forest type, called Joryoku Koyo Jurin or Shoyo Jurin in Japanese, centers on the subtropical and warm temperate zones. Normally, the main Japanese islands would be well outside this area. Thanks to the ameliorating effect of the Kuroshio and Tsushima warm currents, however, the trees extend northward along the coastline as far as Aomori and Iwate prefectures in the Tohoku region.

Ise Jinja, Tanegashima

Unfortunately, the areas formerly home to Japan’s evergreen broad-leaved forests were also the areas best suited to irrigated rice agriculture. This technology was introduced into northern Kyushu from the Korean Peninsula about 3,000 years ago, and rapidly spread eastward. As the population grew, the pressure on local forest resources increased, and much of the primary forest was cut down and replaced by faster-rejuvenating oak coppices or piney woods. In the more recent post-war years, almost all the remaining swaths of primary forest were clear-cut to make room for conifer timber plantations. Sacred groves thus now play an important ecological role by preserving small patches of this vital forest habitat.

Although my sacred grove survey is still in progress, the results clearly show that two species of tree in the Fagaceae or Beech Family (buna-ka) are dominant. These are the sudajii chinquapin (Castanopis sieboldii) and the aka-gashi evergreen oak (Quercus acuta). The most common circumferences for these sacred grove trees range from 150 centimeters to 250 centimeters, which may represent a typical size for 150-year-old trees. Some specimens, however, are obviously much older, with circumferences close to 400 centimeters.

Another charismatic sacred grove species, far rarer than the oaks and chinquapins but often rivaling them in stature, is the tabunoki bay tree. These trees are classified in the Lauraceae or Laurel Family (kusunoki-ka). They are resistant to salt air, which allows them to thrive along the immediate coastline. They are also fairly hardy, and as a result usually dominate sacred groves and other protected primary coastal forests in the far northern edge of the evergreen broad-leaved distribution.

During the winter, tabunoki can be identified by a large single bud that forms at the tip of each branch. In late April, these open up to let out the flowers and a new growth of leaves. The young leaves show a distinct reddish tint, and the flowers, although small and rather inconspicuous, are nectar-rich, and attract a varied insect clientele. The fruits are dark green at first, but ripen to a bluish people.

Uga Jinja at Nojiriko in Nagano

Setsubun background

An article by Alan Wiren in the Kansai Scene this month provides some interesting information about the Setsubun festival.  (The full article can be read here.)

Image courtesy of Kansai Scene

1) It’s traditional to gather up the scattered beans and eat the same number as your age, plus one for good measure.

2) The date is taken from the old lunar calendar. Because it needed tweaking to keep in alignment with the solar cycle, the year was divided into 24 seasonal sections.  The last day of each section was known as ‘setsubun’ (division).  One of these ‘setsubun’ came to hold a special place, because it marked the end of winter by coming between two sections, ‘Severe Cold’ and ‘Spring Begins’.  It was clearly a time for celebration.

3) Chasing away the demons at this time was originally a Chinese custom. The change of seasons was seen as a time when the border between the spirit and human world was at its weakest, making it possible to cross more easily from one realm to the other.

4) The throwing of beans in Japan began during the Muromachi period (15th-16th centuries).  It may have been connected with a Noh play in which an old woman is visited by a stranger, who turns out to be a demon.  In terror she reaches out for the nearest thing to hand – a handful of dried beans – and hurls them at the devil, who is chased away.  (My own supposition here would be that the beans represent life and growth, as against the negativity spread by the demon.)

5) In the Edo period traditional Daoist yin-yang geomancy, with its notion of a lucky direction for each year, brought in the custom of facing that way while eating an entire role of rolled sushi.  It’s said to have begun when an Osaka geisha performed the ritual to ensure she would be with her lover.  As the rolled sushi combines gifts from land and sea, it’s considered auspicious.  (I’ve also heard that the ehousushi [lucky direction sushi] contains seven different ingredients, in line with the Seven Lucky Gods.)

Bean throwing at Kyoto's Heian Jingu; spot the beans (and the geisha)

 

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(For further info about Setsubun, please see here.  For celebrations at Kyoto shrines, please see here and here.)

Suwa Lake freezes over

Picture courtesy of Kyodo/Japan Times

 

Thanks to Gabi Greve for pointing out an article in the Mainichi Daily News, which tells of Suwa Lake freezing over.  This prompted an ancient fortune-telling rite in accord with local lore that the kami Takeminakata (son of Okuninushi) crosses over the frozen surface from one of the Suwa shrines to visit his bride housed in another. (For further details and a report on Suwa Shrine, see here.)

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Harumiya, part of Suwa Taisha

NAGANO, Japan (Kyodo) — A Shinto ritual was held Monday on the frozen surface of Lake Suwa to predict the year’s social situations and the prospects for crop harvests and weather from a streak of elevated ice cracks, a natural phenomenon observed Saturday on the Nagano Prefecture lake for the first time in four years.

A priest from the nearby Yatsurugi Shrine and its devotees checked the exact location of the streak on the lake and performed a purification rite. The predictions will be made later at the shrine by comparing the data with past records.

The phenomenon, known as “omiwatari,” occurs after ice on the surface of the lake repeatedly expands and contracts due to the difference in temperatures during the daytime and night. As a result, the cracks on the ice rise.

In mythology, omiwatari is believed to be the path taken by the male god at the shrine on the southern coast of the lake in visiting the female god at the shrine on the northern coast.
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(The above comes from Mainichi Japan February 6, 2012.  See also Japan Times article.)

Setsubun at Yasaka Jinja


Each Kyoto shrine has its own attraction for the Setsubun ritual. Some feature special demon costumes. Some invite celebrities. Some prepare extensive gifts and make sure that everyone gets beans. Yasaka Jinja offers dances by maiko (apprentice geisha) for the enjoyment of the gods.

The courtyard at Yasaka was packed with over a thousand people eager to get a glimpse or a photo of the five young maiko. After the dances for the kami, they took part in the bean throwing before bravely making their way through the attendant throng to get their fortunes…

Beans were not as plentiful here as at Shimogamo though there were a lot more people. On the other hand you could take part in a lucky lottery, which produced winners for nearly everyone. Mine was some kitchen cleaning stuff, though the carrier bag with its geisha design had rather more appeal.

Hands reaching up desperate to get the lucky beans and so disspell the disease bearing demons for the coming year

Maiko and priests descend into the throng following the bean-throwing

 

Afterwards I looked around the small enmusubi (good connections) shrine which, as at other places, has been done up in recent years to capitalise on the current boom among young women for praying for luck in love. The shrine has produced special heart-shaped ema (prayer tablets), some of which bore rather unusual requests. The most surprising was from someone asking to separate from her pig of a boyfriend and hoping that he would die. Hardly appropriate for a heart sign, one might think. (There are actually ‘good separation’ shrines for that kind of thing.)

Enmusubi shrine with a statue of Okuninushi, kami of good connections

Heart-shaped ema, asking to split up from her pig of a boyfriend

 

Yasaka Jinja does good business for weddings, and next to the shrine is a large wedding hall with a coffee shop where I stopped off after the festivities to get a Zenzai setsubun set consisting of sweet beans (azuki). Afterwards I returned home for the traditional ‘ehoumaki’, which is a long roll of sushi that you eat in the lucky direction for the year. This year it was north-north-west, which I did my best to face as I downed the giant sushi roll as best I could. You’re not supposed to talk or pause, but those things take a lot of scoffing. One hears of elderly people dying every year from getting mochi (rice cakes) stuck in their throat at New Year… I wonder if anyone ever died from a sushi roll !

Zensai set. Available at the Yasaka Shrine wedding hall cafe, and worth knowing about...

Scoffing down an enormous rolled sushi in a north by northwesterly direction

Setsubun at Shimogamo

Fresh, freezing
White moon on a blue sky –
Eygrets flying home

Yesterday saw Kyoto burst out in a riot of demons and bean-throwing as the city indulged in Setsubun activities.  (For an explanation, click here.)  At Shimogamo the day kicked off in the morning with a priestly ceremony and kyudo archery display, followed by afternoon bean throwing with an unexpected guest and the ritual burning of gomaki prayers in a bonfire.  Pictures of the day follow below…

Priests during the rituals to initiate the day's events. The sole priestess is wearing an unusual headdress.

Priests' shoes. Guess which pair belongs to the priestess...

Before the bean-throwing was a short ritual. Look carefully; one of the participants might seem a bit odd.

Bean throwing. Disney meets Shinto with the Kyoto Tower character, Tawawa-chan.

 

Following the bean throwing participants were given a sprig of plum blossom (nice touch!) and paid Y200 for a warming cup of sweet saké, heavily laced with ginger and totally delicious. I had two!

Following the saké there was a fire ceremony to send prayers written on wooden tablets up to heaven

The fire rages as more wooden tablets are thrown on

 

Smoke rising from the burning ofuda and omamori behind the priests

Recently qualified – at 62 (Sumiyoshi Shrine)

The 'spirit-body' camphor tree of Nankun Jinja

At the back of Sumiyoshi Shrine in Osaka is a small shrine called Nankun Jinja. It seems to be part of Sumiyoshi, yet it’s independent at the same time.  The priest explained to me it was a massha (an auxiliary under the management of a larger shrine) and it has its own ujiko (parishioners).

A full collection of 48 maneki cats. Those with the left arm raised are beckoning people; those with the right raised beckon money.

It’s unusual in a number of ways. First because the shrine’s goshintai (spirit-body) is a camphor tree (see picture on the left).

Secondly because the shrine sells small maneki cats, which are collected each month by worshippers at the shrine in a set of 48.  (At Y500 a cat, over four years that works out at Y24,000.)  I was only about ten or fifteen minutes at the shrine, but there must have been four or five elderly people who came in to buy them during that time.  Apparently at least sixty people a day come in to buy one.

But perhaps the most remarkable aspect of the tiny shrine is the resident priest, who took time out from his duties to tell me his life story.  Born in Kyoto, he did engineering at Kyoto University before taking a job with an electricity company for whom he did PR work.  He happened to marry the daughter of the head priest of Sumiyoshi Shrine, but had little interest in the religion until nearing retirement one of the priests at the shrine encouraged him to consider working there and helping out.

Accordingly he did monthly courses at Kogakkan University while doing on the job training.  Cold water austerity, sitting long periods of seiza (on one’s knees), memorising prayers and movements were all rigorous activities for someone who’d worked in comfortable warm offices all his life.  ‘Taihen desu yo,’ (Terrible) he said cheerfully.  I got the feeling, despite the cold, he was enjoying his new work.

Sumiyoshi Jinja is a remarkable place with historical associations and unique features.  Well worth a visit.  It stood once by the sea and was celebrated for the beauty of its beach setting.  Not much sign of that now, though.  Nonetheless there’s a most attractive layout.

It’s got four separate main prayer halls; a rabbit water basin (after the supposed founding on the day of the rabbit); a fancy headdress for the miko which features pine and crane (celebrated in verse and a Noh play); a taiko style bridge which must be the most exaggerated I’ve seen (to denote passing from one realm to another); a mirror-hole through which one worships towards Ise; and good luck fortune pebbles for which you have to search in order to fill up your good luck pouch.  Pictures follow below….

Entrance to Sumiyoshi, and one of the four main shrines

Miko with pine and crane headdress

Rabbit temizuya. Unusual, if not unique, to get water from a rabbit.

Small bags with lucky pebble stones

Taiko bashi: it's a steep climb from one realm to the other

That's no mirror; that's a hole that looks all the way to Ise.

Painted doors inside the first of the Hongu

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