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Japan is a mirror

The bronze mirror of antiquity was a precious and sacred object. Here the carved back is displayed, the other side was carefully polished so as to reflect sunlight.

The circular mirror of Shinto is a potent symbol. One often sees it when visiting shrines, for it stands on the altar as representative of the kami, and in particular of Amaterasu the sun goddess. It can play a more vital role too, as the ‘spirit-body’ (goshintai) into which the kami descends. The idea is that within the reflecting surface is housed something beyond normal understanding, for the illusionary nature of a reflected image is both real and unreal at the same time. The mirror is thus an interface between the physical and spiritual realms. What could be more appropriate? Through the looking-glass lies a Wonderland, yet the Wonderland is right here around us.

In Japanese mythology the original mirror belonged to Amaterasu, the Sun Goddess who dwells in Heaven. When her grandson, Ninigi, descended to earth, she gave him a precious bronze mirror, circular in shape ‘Take this and revere it as if it were myself,’ she told him. It was as if her radiance had seared her spirit into the very metal.

The misakaki at Shinto shrines has a covered bronze mirror

According to mythology, her grandson Ninigi passed the mirror down to his great grandson, Emperor Jimmu, first of the earthly emperors. It was the supposed start of the imperial succession which continues to this very day, and the present emperor is held to be the 125th in line. Tradition states that the mirror was originally kept in the palace of the king of Yamato, before being deposited at Ise Jingu in the early centuries of the Common Era. Since that time it has been unseen by human eye, hidden behind wooden doors. The millions of pilgrims who visit each year pray towards this unseen presence.

As the ancestral shrine of the imperial family, Ise is the country’s premier shrine as it houses the ‘spirit-body’ of the sun goddess herself. Here then is the country’s holiest of holies, its symbolic soul. In this sense, Japan truly is a mirror. The idea of a circular mirror carrying such significance might seem odd, but it’s worth noting that ancient Chinese believed the human soul to be a shining disc, a connotation that carried over to the bronze mirror.

For early humans the bronze mirror was a powerful spiritual tool, acting as a kind of ray gun which would emit reflected light to dispel the forces of darkness. Shamans hung them on their chest to ward off evil, similarly they were fixed to the front of ships to ensure victory at sea. Given its power and precious properties, it became a highly valued symbol of authority, and beautifully wrought mirrors were presented as the highest form of gifts to kings and deities. Together with the sword and magatama beads, a bronze mirror is one of the three sacred regalia of the Japanese emperor.

In modern shrines the mirror that sits on the altar is intended to invoke feelings of purity, gratitude, and awe. Yet in some shrines the mirror is fixed at such an angle that when worshippers pray, they find they are looking at their own reflection. How suggestive! People praying to the divine within themselves. As in Hinduism, it’s not a case of God be with you, but God is in you! As descendants of the kami, humans are also part of the divine order and live in a sacred world. There is no future heaven, no Garden of Eden from which we have been ejected, for it’s right here, right now. Look in the mirror and paradise is there. It’s this life-affirming assertion which makes Shinto so appealing.

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The above is an extract from a work in progress, tentatively titled Within the Mirror

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Mirror with reflection of a ‘gohei’ into which the kami descends

Emperor succession

The recent royal wedding in the UK prompts thoughts about the imperial family in Japan. In both cases the monarch is the head of the presiding religion, though a female monarch in Britain’s case would currently be an impossibility in Japan due to a Meiji-era law.

Joseph Cali, co-author of Shinto Shrines, runs an excellent blog with the same name and has written in admirably clear terms of the constitutional situation confronting the emperor’s situation here in Japan. Green Shinto is grateful to him for permission to repost here.

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The Modern History (Controversy) of the Emperor’s Succession

Shinto Shrines of Japan the Blog Guide, Emperor Jimmu
The legendary first Emperor Jimmu,
supposedly 660-585 BC

On December 1 2001 a daughter was born to the Crown Prince of Japan, thereby stirring an old controversy on the right of succession to the Chrysanthemum Throne. Princess Toshi, whose given name is Aiko, is the only child of the eldest son the Emperor’s eldest son, Crown Prince Naruhito, who will succeed his father to the throne: no problem there.

If Prince Naruhito had a son, he would be next in line to succeed. However, women are barred from succession and this is where the old controversy has been revived. Until September 2006, the controversy was particularly acute. That is because the Crown Prince’s younger brother, Fumihito, also had two daughters who were barred from succession. In other words: only female heirs. But in that year, a son was born to Fumihito. Named Prince Hisahito, he is now next in line to the throne after his uncle.

Shinto Shrines of Japan the Blog Guide, Empress Jingu
Legendary Empress Jingu (r. 201-269) Mother of Emperor Ojin
and worshiped together as the kami Hachiman

Why the controversy? Simply because, like so many aspects of Japanese culture, the succession law is an ‘invented tradition‘.  Historically, the Emperor’s succession has been male dominated, but some  female Emperors even ascended the throne more than once. The Emperor also, traditionally, never stepped outside the palace grounds and most people had no idea who the Emperor was at any given time. This changed, as so many of Japan’s “immutable traditions” did, after the Meiji Restoration of 1868.

As most readers probably know, this is the beginning of the modern period when the Shogun was deposed and the Emperor “restored” to primacy as head of state – a position he had neither officially or unofficially occupied since the Kamakura Period beginning about 1185. Of course, after being restored, he was still, and is today, only a figurehead. Rather, the “restoration” ushered in a semi-democratic form of government. And that government not only legislated for the people, it legislated for the Emperor too. The Imperial House Code, established in 1889, and heavily influenced by the love affair with Prussia, instituted a number of changes that continue to haunt the country.

Shinto Shrines of Japan the Blog Guide, Empress Gensho
Empress Gensho (r.715-724), a unique example of an Empress who succeeded her mother (Empress Genmei)

The first change from traditional practices was no female succession. The second change was to forbid agnatic succession, whereby another relative – usually a brother – could succeed. The third change was to stipulate that an adopted child could not succeed. In fact, historically the last adopted child to become emperor was Kokaku (r.1780–1817) who stepped in because the previous Emperor, Go-Momozono, died childless.

Kokaku was also the last emperor to abdicate, which he did in favor of his son Emperor Ninko. Which brings us to the fourth change: abdication was forbidden by the 1889 law. So here lies another controversy: the current Emperor Akihito, age 83, has decided to abdicate by 2019 due to health issues. This sent the government scrambling to change the law, while die-hard opponents sought ways to convince the emperor to die in office.

Emperor Komei (r. 1846-67), the last feudal emperor and the last to reside in Kyoto

Komei’s son, Emperor Meiji (r.1867-1912), first to preside over a parliament

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Meiji-era law was rewritten in 1947, mostly because Japan adopted a new American influenced constitution. However changes were minor and it was pretty much kept the same, except to further add a restriction that illegitimate children could not succeed (which went along with a ban on  emperors having concubines). It also abolished collateral houses, which traditionally would have provided male heirs too.

However, the problem of the emperor’s abdication has been overcome, simply because the Emperor insists he will abdicate – and who is going to stop him? Which demonstrates very clearly that where there’s a will there’s a way.  So why all the fuss about succession? It would be easy to change the law to allow daughters to succeed, and despite a widely held misconception the present law is not based on Japanese tradition. In fact, the majority of the population is in favor of a change, as a number of polls have shown, but among the Japanese ruling class – I mean the ‘permanent’ ruling class – “not over my dead body” remains the attitude.

Kyoto’s Aoi Matsuri (15th)

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The procession begins at the Old Imperial Palace, and participants are dressed in Heian garb with a sprig of aoi or katsura leaves

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At the beginning there’s a palpable sense of excitement.

A reminder that tomorrow sees one of the Big Three Festivals in Kyoto (the others being the Gion Matsuri in July and the Jidai Matsuri in October). All the preliminary events have been done, such as the horse-riding and various purifications, and the way is clear for the grand procession in which the imperial messenger delivers greetings and offerings for the kami.  (For the schedule, please see below.)

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Women dressed in the style of court ladies add colour and elegance to the procession

The festival originated in the sixth century in a desire to please the kami and prevent disasters. Nowadays there are over 500 participants in Heian era costume; 36 horses; 2 ox-carriages. The procession starts off from the Former Imperial Palace around 10.30, and the stately progress means that it takes an hour to travel the short distance to Shimogamo Shrine.The procession stretches out to be half a mile long, and consists of horseback warriors, foot warriors, courtiers, lower-rank guards, higher-rank guards, halberd bearers and dignitaries.   At Shimogamo dances are performed for the kami and the imperial messenger delivers gifts and greetings.  Around 2.20 the procession sets off for Kamigamo Jinja where it arrives around 4.30 and rituals are again performed.

In medieval times there were two processions, one for the imperial messenger proceeding from the Imperial Palace and the other for the Saiin (an unmarried female related to the emperor appointed to the shrines).  Between 810 and the early thirteenth century, when the practice fell into abeyance, there were 35 such priestesses who lived in palaces somewhere between the two Kamo shrines.

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The Saiin inevitably is the star of the show, the May Queen of the whole event

The procession gets ready for departure in the grounds of the Former Imperial Palace.  In former times the procession of the Saiin would meet up with that of the imperial messenger, and they would proceed together to the shrines.  Nowadays everyone sets off from the south side of Gosho (Former Imperial Palace), and the role of the Saiin is taken by an unmarried young female from a well-bred local family.  (For an interview with a former representative, click here.)

Because of the nature of the event, if the weather is bad a decision has to be made as to whether to postpone the parade for a day. After all, those junihitoe (twelve-layered ceremonial kimono) and other exquisite costumes are precious items, not intended by any means to serve as simple rain-gear!

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Even the children get to wear precious costumes, though on a hot day it can be an awfully long way to walk in such thick clothing

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Click for more about the Aoi Festival.  For more about the significance of the Aoi Festival and its pre-events, see Mikage Festival and Miare sai.  To read further details about the festival itself, try the Wikipedia pages or this page of small pictures with accompanying explanations.
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Kyoto: Aoi Matsuri

Hollyhock Festival of the shrines. This 1,400-year old festival features a magnificent pageant which colorfully reproduces the imperial procession that used to pay homage to these shrines in ancient days. The procession consists of the ox-drawn carriages, courtiers and court ladies clad in ancient court robes, and men holding flower-decorated umbrellas, all decorated with hollyhock leaf. If it rains, the festival will be postponed to the next day.

Schedule & Key events:
10:30 a.m.-11:40 a.m. Procession from Kyoto Imperial Palace to Shimogamo-jinja Shrine
2:20 p.m.-3:30 p.m. Procession from Shimogamo-jinja Shrine to Kamigamo-jinja Shrine


Festival information compiled in cooperation with the Tourist Information Center of the Japan National Tourist Organization.  (03) 3201-3331). Open 9 a.m.-5 p.m. daily.

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Strolling musicians accompany the procession…

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… and even the drum gets decorated with the trademark aoi emblem.

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In the late afternoon the procession finally reaches Kamigamo Shrine…

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… where a reception party waits at the inner torii…

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… though for some it’s been a long and exhausting day.

Oharano Jinja (Kyoto)

Entrance torii and approach to Oharano Shrine, reflecting its one-time importance

It’s on the outskirts of Kyoto. It’s in spacious woodland. It dates back to the eighth century and pre-Heian times. It’s little-known, but once it was counted amongst the top 22 shrines of Japan.

Oharano Shrine is closely associated with the powerful Fujiwara clan. It was set up by the dominant family at the time of the Nagaoka Capital (784-794), which preceded Heian-kyo (i.e. Kyoto). The area was said to be a favourite of Emperor Kammu (737-806), who hunted around the foothills, and the shrine later featured in such literary works as Tales of Ise and The Tale of Genji, while its pure spring water was celebrated in many a poem.

The deities here were installed from Kasuga Taisha, clan shrine of the Fujiwara whose symbol was the deer on which their kami rode.

Misfortune and an ‘angry spirit’ drove Emperor Kammu to abandon the Nagaoka capital, leading to the foundation of Heian-kyo in 794. The Fujiwara continued to keep up patronage of Oharano, even despite the establishment of Kyoto’s Yoshida Shrine in 859 as a new base for the clan.

The Fujiwara were descendants of the powerful Nakatomi clan, whose authority derived from having charge of court rituals and purification rites. Their ancestor, Ame no Koyane, was one of the five clan leaders who descended from heaven with Ninigi no mikoto in the so-called Tenson Korin.

One of the Fujiwara was the famous poet, Ariwara no Narihira (825–880), a courtier and grandson of Emperor Kammu. A renowned lady’s man, he was in love with Takako, the wife of Emperor Seiwa. Though he was banned from seeing her, he wrote the following poem on the occasion of her visit to Oharano (she was a distant relative of Narihira and as a Fujiwara was visiting her ujigami clan shrine).

おほはらやをしほの山もけふこそは神世のことも思ひいつらめ
Ohara ya Oshiho no yama mo kefukoso wa kamiyo no koto mo omohitsurame

Oharano and Oshio Mountain
on this day in particular
bring to mind
the Age of the Gods

The poem suggests that Takako’s visit conferred on the setting the majesty of a time when gods strode the earth, as portrayed in Japanese mythology. It was included in the first of the great imperial anthologies, Kokinwakashū (c.905).

There’s an interesting anecdote that goes with this poem, which is included in my Cultural History of Kyoto. According to tradition, Narihira lived on the site of the present-day temple of Jurin-ji, a fifteen minute walk away from Oharano Jinja. Like other aristocrats, he enjoyed salt making by boiling water, which resulted in steam rising into the sky. On the occasion of Takako’s visit, he added purple dye to the water thereby colouring the sky with evidence of his love for her.

Today Jurin-ji is keen to celebrate its link with the poet, and his supposed grave is prominently displayed while a site is marked out where his salt making could have taken place. Buddhist temple and Shinto shrine thus continue to be linked by poetry, even though the artificial separation of the Meiji Restoration in 1868 drew a line between them. Love conquers all!

From Oharano Shrine to Hana Dera where Saigyo’s cherry tree stands is a pleasant woodland walk.

Close to Oharano Jinja, less than a ten minute walk away, is another temple with strong poetic connections. Hana Dera (Flower Temple) is the popular name of Shoji-ji, famed for its cherry blossom.

The wandering monk, Saigyo (1118 – 1190), stayed in a hut in the grounds as a young man when he was on retreat, and one of his poems describes the nuisance of noisy tourists coming to visit a flowering cherry tree at the temple – a sentiment with which contemporary Kyotoites might well sympathise! The poem blames the tree for attracting the crowds and forms the basis for a famous Noh play, Saigyo-zakura, written by Zeami (c. 1363 – c. 1443).

花見にと 群れつつ人の 来るのみぞ あたら桜の 咎(とが)にはありける
Hanami ni to mure tsutsu hito no kuru nomi zo atara sakura no toga ni wa arikeru

Throngs of visitors
One after another
To view the cherry blossom –
It’s all the fault of the tree, regrettably,
For being so beautiful

The poem was included in Saigyo’s anthology, Gyokayoshu, with a heading by the poet that ran: ‘Composed on the occasion of a visit by people come to see my blossoms, just as I had planned to spend my time in peace.’

According to the temple, this is the third generation of a cherry tree that Saigyo himself planted in the grounds. The board calls it ‘Saigyo Zakura’, just like the Noh play.

The lily pond is part of the spacious landscaped grounds at Oharano, evidence of the shrine’s former opulence

The deer motif which runs throughout the shrine is seen here at the water basin.

A cute version of the shrine’s totemic animal is found on the ’ema’ prayer boards.

Another trademark of Fujiwara shrines is wisteria, which in Japanese is called ‘Fuji’.

Even today the main compound impresses with its peace and stately nature. Unlike Saigyo’s poem, the shrine is now a place to get away from the downtown crowds of Kyoto – but please keep that secret!

Busha Shinji (Pre-Aoi archery)

The Aoi Festival is one of Kyoto’s Big Three Festivals, though if like me you appreciate authenticity over pageantry you might say it’s one of Kyoto’s Big Two (together with Gion Matsuri in July). Like the Gion Festival, there are a lot of pre-events and preparatory rites before the main event, which consists of a long procession.

One of the pre-events for the Aoi Festival main procession (May 15) is the Busha Shinji on May 5, an auspicious date for purification by arrows. This follows the purification by water a couple of days earlier of the governing ‘saio’ or vestal virgin.

Purifying the compound. This arrow was launched over the entrance gate to dispell any lurking evil spirits.

 

This year’s event was carried out by the Ogasawara-ryu School of Archery, some of whom were venerable enough to nod off during proceedings.

 

Paying respects

 

The priestly officials supervising the occasion, with trademark aoi (hollyhock) leaves on their hats

 

Getting set and taking aim is done in deliberate ritual fashion

 

As in Japanese culture generally, precision, respect, care, harmony and concentration are the guiding principles

 

Shoulders are exposed for the firing of the arrows

 

Drawing the arrow to its full length requires strength and endurance. Such was the tautness that hands were visibly shaking. Most scored a direct hit on the target, representing a direct hit on any evil spirit that might have been planning to pollute the proceedings.

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For an earlier posting on this event, please see this link: https://www.greenshinto.com/2013/05/06/shimogamo-archery-pre-aoi-55/

Shimogamo Update

Green Shinto has hosted several postings about my local shrine, the World Heritage site of Shimogamo Jinja. The wooded surrounds, crystal-clear streams and sense of history make visits a constant delight. As someone interested in Shinto affairs, I’m always alert to the many changes made to this bastion of tradition each year. Many of the innovations and modifications are done in the name of authenticity, but some are simply deliberate attempts to increase revenue. On a Golden Week visit a couple of days ago, I took my iPhone with me and photographed some of the recent changes.

The biggest surprise was to find a brand new subshrine on the main approach to the shrine. Simple, pristine and pure with its white gravel flooring, it is dedicated to the 35 ‘saio’ or vestal virgins who served at the shrine from the ninth to the twelfth centuries. (The shrine apparently existed prior to WW2 and has been restored in the present round of rebuilding. Its official name is the rather wordy, KamoSai’in Reidai no Itsuki no Miya no Mitama no Yashiro.)

 

Nearby is another new subshrine, the Sawata-sha, originally a deity protecting the imperial palace. The shrine building was moved to Shimogamo after the Onin War devastation, then, remarkably, in 1910 ‘the deity communed through the vehicle of “the ball”, and the first attempt at a rugby match took place on the horse grounds in front of the shrine… Thus the world of Japanese rugby began its history.’ Can it be just coincidence that Japan is looking to host the rugby World Cup next year?!

 

Previously I always thought of water and fortune slips as being associated with Kibune Jinja, but Shimogamo has now introduced the attraction. Soak your paper in the stream, and the water deity will reveal your fortune.

 

Like other shrines, Shimogamo is happy to cash in on popular manga and anime which use the shrines as fantasy sites influenced by the ‘power spot’ and Harry Potter boom. In this case the popular Eccentric Family (Uchouten Kazoku) set in the shrine.

 

A few years ago you never saw English at shrines. Now instructions about how to worship and ;unify oneself beforehand are almost ubiquitous in the face of the tourist tsunami that has swept across the country.

 

At both the main shrine, and here at the Kawai sub shrine, doors previously kept closed have been thrown open to reveal the honden sanctuaries into which the kami alight. Purified pebbles provide an intermediate space between this world and the other.

 

One new attraction is a cart and pair of matching horses to trot round the sacred grounds. At least it draws on the tradition of horses as intermediaries with the kami, though it’s unlikely these ones will gallop off and take flight in the manner of winged Pegasus…

 

In the woods a 12th century outdoor altar has been excavated, giving a true sense of nature worship

 

Sadly the visit ends with the shrine’s principal means of revenue for the moment – a block of recently constructed flats that necessitated the cutting down of ancient trees and which will be rented out for the next thirty years before – supposedly – the woodland will be restored.

World Heritage Munakata Taisha

The Honden (Sanctuary) and Haiden (Worship Hall) at Hetsu-miya, the most accessible part of the Munakata World Heritage site. In the early morning the miko are busy cleaning and sweeping the whole premises.

World Heritage Shinto shrines

In 2012 for a Tuttle book, published two years later as Japan’s World Heritage Sites, I travelled the length of Japan visiting all of the Unesco sites. Along the way I was intrigued by the number of Shinto shrines involved. These were often minor shrines and little known, so it was a surprise to find them listed as part of a Unesco World Heritage site. Accordingly I started to make a personal listing of them in order of significance, dividing them at first into three separate ranks.

The first rank are shrines created as a World Heritage site in their own right, the prime example being the wonderful Itsukushima Shrine at Hiroshima. The second rank comprises shrines nominated as part of a larger entity, for example Kamigamo, Shimogamo and Ujigami Shrines which are all components of the Ancient Kyoto World Heritage site.

The third rank happen to stand on a site that is nominated for other reasons.  Hashima Shrine on Gunkanjima is a good example, for it is incidental to the island’s reason for being nominated as part of the Meiji Industrial Revolution World Heritage site. (For an overview of World Heritage shrines, please click here.)

Munakata Taisha

In 2017 a Shinto shrine received recognition from Unesco under its own name, placing it in the prestigious front rank of Japan’s World Heritage shrines. Munakata Taisha, comprising four component parts, is in Fukuoka Prefecture, Kyushu, and owes its status to the tiny uninhabited island of Okinoshima. In ancient times the island hosted the last shrine for Japanese setting off on the perilous voyage to Korea. It was therefore a place to make offerings to the Kami in the hope of a safe crossing. As a result the island has proved in recent times to be the site of a staggering 120,000 rare and precious objects.

The Nakatsu-miya Worship Hall

Later two other shrines were put up in connection with the island shrine. One of them was on Kyushu proper near the Fukuoka coast, called Hetsu-miya Shrine. The other was on the offshore island of Oshima. This is known as Nakatsu-miya Shrine.

Together with the original island shrine on Okinoshima, the three shrines comprise the tripartite complex of Munakata Taisha. The shrine was prestigious, because of its significance in continental trading between the fourth and ninth centuries. Political uncertainty on the continent meant that trade diminished thereafter, lessening the power of the Munakata clan, whose burial mounds near Hetsu-miya shrine are also part of the Unesco site.

Burial mounds of the powerful Munakata clan, who oversaw the sealanes between north Kyushu and Korea


Hetsu-miya Shrine

The main shrine, commonly referred to as Munakata Taisha but officially the Hetsu-miya (or Hetsu-gu) shrine, is about forty minutes outside Fukuoka. It’s the biggest and most accessible part of the World Heritage site. The buildings were put up around the twelfth century, though there’s a fascinating clearing where it’s thought rituals were originally held. For those of us into nature worship, there’s a real sense here of drawing down spirits in the woods. These simple outdoor sites of worship were commonplace, before the arrival of Buddhism introduced the idea of providing shelter for the deities in a ‘palace’ of their own.

The clearing in the woods behind the main shrine where worship was originally held

As well as the main shrine there are two immaculate auxiliary shrines, one for each of the three Munakata sisters, who are the presiding deities. In Japanese myth the women who were daughters of the sun goddess Amaterasu were known as Michinushi-no-Muchi, meaning those who control traffic safety, and sealanes in particular.  In this way the female deities became popular with sailors and fishermen, who prayed to them for good catches as well as safety at sea.

The Second and Third Shrines at Hetsu-miya are structures sent from Ise Jingu which are taken down in the 20-year rebuilding cycle known as Shikinen Sengu.

Also in the precincts of Hetsu-miya is a treasure house displaying many of the rare artefacts unearthed on the Okinoshima island. These include jewellery, glasswork, horse equipment, mirrors, swords and some items that originate along the Silk Road, from as far afield as Persia.

Nakatsu-miya Shrine

From Hetsu-miya a nearby ferry port provides a twenty-minute passage to Oshima Island, on which stands Nakatsu-miya shrine. It is located on a steep slope overlooking the harbour, and featuring a long stone staircase.

Nakatsu-miya shrine overlooking Oshima port is an outlying branch of Munakata Taisha, acting as a bridge between the main shrine on Kyushu and the distant island of Okinoshima.

The shrine buildings were only put up in the sixteenth century, and originally rituals were held in the open on the top of Mount Mitake. A path behind the shrine leads up to the summit, meaning that the Munakata complex as a whole is a fascinating place to explore the kind of nature worship that once held sway in Japan.

One of the interesting features of Nakatsu-miya is the Distant Worship Place that stands on the other side of the island, a pleasant thirty minute walk away. The outlying subshrine is set on a cliff facing the sacred island of Okinoshima. Since ordinary people were not allowed to set foot on the island, this was as close as they could get. These distant worship places, known as Yohaisho, are not uncommon in Japan and usually focus on Ise Jingu, providing a means of offering prayer for those unable to travel there in person (for a posting about the one in Kyoto, please see here).

There used to be an annual festival on Okinoshima, when over a hundred local men were allowed onto the island after purifying themselves in the sea. Now with World Heritage recognition, even this has been suspended, and the only person allowed on the sacred island is the Shinto priest who conducts rituals for the kami. You don’t get much more special than that! Though access to the treasure island is banned, it is definitely worth making the pilgrimage to the Distant Viewing Place pictured below, which even on an overcast day still offers an imaginative view into the fascinating history of Japan’s ancient past.

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Reference
Shinto Shrines by Joseph Cali and John Dougill (Uni of Hawaii Press), p.274

Looking into the Haiden of the Hetsu-miya, main shrine of the Munakata Taisha complex

The Yohaisho, Distant Worship Shrine for Okinoshima 35 miles away, stands on its own on a small cliff edge, looking wistfully out to sea and the small sacred island barely visible on the horizon

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