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Zen and Shinto 7: The Dao of Rock

Shigemori Mirei garden at Matsuo Taisha

Shinto garden by Shigemori Mirei at Matsuo Taisha

In my investigations into Zen this morning, I had something of an epiphany – or perhaps I should say, an awakening.  Both Zen and Shinto share roots in Daoism (Taoism).  Zen it has been said is the result of Indian Buddhism colliding with Chinese thought.  And Shinto was conceived linguistically as shendao  – the  Way of the Gods.  In other words, the thinking behind the Way of the Tao is fundamental to both.  As Alan Watts explained in his very last book (1975), Tao is the Watercourse Way, flowing through the universe like an animating force.

Rock worship at Kamigamo Jinja

Rock worship at Kamigamo Jinja

So, you may ask, if Zen and Shinto both share this in common, why are they so very different in form and belief?  Why is one kami-oriented and particularist, while the other is self-oriented and universal?  Why does Shinto look to this life, while Zen dwells on another?

Well, the thought struck me that they may not be as different as they seem.  Both are after all based on intuitive understanding and repudiate logic and words.  Zen prides itself on a transmission outside the scriptures.  Shinto has no scriptures.  Both in short treasure non-verbal understanding. ‘He who knows does not speak; he who speaks does not know,’ said Lao-Tzu.

In the Tao Te Ching, it is said the Way can never be known or defined.  It can, however, be sensed or experienced, and its principles are observable in Nature.  In Zen this is internalised as people seek their true inner nature.  In Shinto there is the concept of kannagara, which in effect means following the laws of nature.  Both seek the Way, but whereas Zen looks inside, Shinto looks outside.  The former goes to the mountains to get closer to self, the latter goes to the mountains for closeness to the kami.  And here perhaps is the vital difference between them, for whereas the former is deeply personal, the latter is community oriented.  Zen tells you to sit in silence.  Shinto encourages communal celebration.

Living rock at Togakushi Jinja

Living rocks at Togakushi Jinja

It may be no coincidence then that both religions treasure rocks.  (Landscape architect Shigemori Mirei has done rock gardens for both.)  Zen temples are full of rocks in their beloved dry landscape gardens.  Shinto shrines are full of sacred rocks, bedecked with shimenawa straw rope or shide paper strips. Rocks in Zen may trigger enlightenment.  Rocks in Shinto are sacred vessels into which kami descend.  Both religions see them as something more than mere stone – they’re representational, mini-mountains, spirit-bodies.  On another level, they’re symbols of silence, of the non-verbal, of the eternal.

Here again Daoism lies at the root.  Daoist practitioners went into caves to meditate, and what are caves but hollowed out rock?  Significantly, in the Zen garden rocks stand for Mt Horai, the Blessed Isles of the Immortals where Daoist sages live.  They may also symbolise moments of time in a vast ocean of raked gravel. And beyond that they symbolise the biggest rock of all, the one on which we’re spinning round the solar system.  In this way they’re symbolic of Mother Earth, which, to quote Alan Watts, produced humans in the same way that trees produce apples.  We are then the children of rock, because the earth-rock has ‘peopled’ us into existence.  When Shinto followers worship rocks, they’re worshipping their ancestors in a very real sense.

It turns out then that in both Zen and Shinto rock is a means to salvation.  Don McLean was on the right lines all those years ago.  Rock truly will save your mortal soul!

Zen garden by Shigemori Mirei at Zuiho-in, Daitoku-ji

Zen garden by Shigemori Mirei at Zuiho-in, Daitoku-ji with Mt Horai at the far end, from which a peninsula stretches out towards an individual rock, marooned and all at sea.

Zen and Shinto 6: Shokoku-ji

Characteristic Shinto and Buddhist roofs next to each other at Shokoku-ji. In the foreground the shingled Benzaiten shrine, in the background the tiled roof of the Zen temple's belltower.

Characteristic Shinto and Buddhist roofs next to each other at Shokoku-ji. In the foreground a shingled roof on the Sanctuary of a Benzaiten shrine, in the background the tiled roof of the Zen temple’s belltower.

Shokoku-ji was established in 1383 as a shogunate showpiece, but not long after completion burnt down and had to be completely rebuilt.  It ranked second among the Five Gozan temples and played a prominent part in furthering Zen culture.  It also accrued valuable assets, such as ownership of the Gold and Silver Pavilions.  Severely reduced in size in Meiji times, it is now a relatively peaceful area behind Doshisha University and hosts the association offices for the schools of Rinzai and Obaku Zen.

The temple is said to be the wealthiest of Kyoto’s seven large monasteries, which is why it can afford to show less concern with tourist income.  Though the grounds are free to visit, the only building usually open to the public is the museum.  A notice posted on the main building says: ‘Please respect the temple precincts, garden and environment as a religious space. You will acquire Buddha’s providence from the bottom of our heart.’

Hachiman Shrine, an appropriate kami for a temple founded by the samurai

Hachiman Shrine at Shokoku-ji, an appropriate kami for a temple founded by samurai

The monastery was set up as a personal project by the powerful shogun, Ashikaga Yoshimitsu (founder of the Golden Pavilion), with a location close to his Muromachi palace. To make space for the massive estate, locals were forced out of their homes: ‘Shokoku-ji was built on people’s grief,’ ran a saying of the time.  Construction took nine years to complete and involved the felling of Kyoto’s oldest cedar and cypress trees.

The original layout can be seen in the positioning of the lotus pond along a central axis on which stand the Hatto (Lecture Hall) and the Hojo (Abbot’s Quarters).  Noticeably missing however are the Sanmon gate and Buddha Hall, both destroyed by fire in 1788 and never replaced.  In their stead are red pine trees, giving the precincts a distinctive wooded feel.

Of the thirteen buildings in the main compound three are tutelary shrines honouring Japanese kami; Hachiman, Benten and Inari.  Two of the shrines stand either side of an impressive bell-tower, one of which is dedicated, uniquely, to a white fox which impersonated tea-master Sotan, grandson of Sen no Rikyu.  Legend has it that to the astonishment of participants the fox served tea at a ceremony held at the temple.

Close to Shokoku-ji is a Nichiren temple which also shows close ties to the kami (see pics below).  Not only does a tutelary shrine to Myoken stand close to the entrance, but its temple gate is festooned with shide paper strips.  It’s a reminder that kami worship remains an active part of contemporary Buddhism, in sects other than Zen – Tendai and Shingon, for instance, as well as Nichiren.  (The Pure Land sects are less kami-friendly.)

I can’t help wondering why the numerous syncretic shrines of Buddhism are completely overlooked in books on Shinto.  The obvious answer is that they belong to Buddhism rather than Shinto.  Fair enough.  But if the religion is defined as ‘kami worship’, as it often is, then surely these kami worshipping shrines deserve greater attention.  One aspect that could be drawn out is the universalism of Buddhism versus the particularism of Shinto, and as I continue my probings into the relationship I hope to be talking to some Buddhist priests about their thoughts regarding the kami.

The Sotan Inari-sha, built to honour a white fox

The Sotan Inari-sha, built to honour a white fox

Nichiren temple with adjacent torii and Buddhist gate (and a visible means of transport between the two worlds!)

Nichiren temple gate (Honman-ji) with adjacent torii  (and visible means of transport between them!)

Sacred rocks have long been part of the Shinto tradition. These are Buddhist, as indicated by the whorls.

Sacred rocks have long been part of the Shinto tradition. These are Buddhist, as indicated by the whorls.

Seasonal awareness is part of the Japanese tradition too, both Shinto and Buddhist. The plum blossom have been out early this year, this fellow found basking in the sun at the Nichiren temple.

Seasonal awareness is part of the Japanese tradition too, both Shinto and Buddhist. The plum blossom have been out early this year, this example found basking in the sun at Shokoku-ji – a reminder that one of Kyoto’s most popular festivals, the large Plum Blossom Festival at Kitano Tenmangu, will be held soon on the 25th.

Buddhist-Shinto relations

Buddhist priests outnumber their Shinto counterparts – and historically they held more authority

Buddhist priests outnumber their Shinto counterparts – and historically they held more authority

A book I came across recently (Visions of Power, Imagining Medieval Japanese Buddhism) discusses the attitude of early monks to the kami.  By and large, the Buddhists saw themselves as possessing greater power through the truth of their teaching. Though their attitude was largely one of respect and devotion, there are many legends of monks converting local gods to Buddhism, in return for which they are allowed to establish monasteries and granted protection.  In some cases the monks actually punish the kami for not carrying out their role of protector properly.

Gohei offering in a Tendai temple

Gohei offering in a Tendai temple

At one time there was hostility among kami supporters to the imported religion, but this was soon suffused into mutual recognition.  A famous medieval account tells how Emperor Shomu asked the Buddhist priest, Gyoki, to offer a relic of the Buddha at Ise.  On the seventh day after the offering, the voice of Amaterasu was heard to say that thanks to the monk’s devotion she had just achieved salvation.  Thereafter the emperor dreamt that Amaterasu was none other than the Buddhist deity, Dainichi (literally, Great Sun).

A later Buddhist sect, Zen, became associated with Sugawara no Michizane, who was one of the last to go to China to study in Heian times.  The Chan master Wuzhun Shifan (1177-1249) is said to have transmitted his patriarchal robe to Michizane, who posthumously became the kami Tenjin.  Like other kami, Sugawara’s spirit was integrated into Zen as a protector of temples, though it was thought he needed Buddhist instruction to achieve true enlightenment.

Enni Ben’en, founder of Tofuku-ji, was visited by Michizane in a dream and told to go to China to study meditation.  He did, spending six years there and returning to spread Zen in Kyushu (he also  brought back noodles, namely udon).

Hachiman dressed as a Buddhist priest in search of enlightenment

Hachiman dressed as a Buddhist priest in search of enlightenment

In China the three teachings were of Buddhism, Confucianism and Daoism.  In Japan Daoism was replaced with its local equivalent, Shinto.  The worship of kami by Buddhist priests has been viewed as a ‘skillful means’ by which to achieve their ends.  Some believed they were ‘masters of the kami’, while others may have been agnostic (as are many today, calling themselves ritualists rather than believers).  Nonetheless the legacy is clear.

As I’ve come to see on my round of Zen temples, far from ‘Nothingness’ the Zen imagination is peopled by a populous universe.  As if the eight myriad kami of Japan were not enough, temple statues include a whole range of deities drawn China and India, ranked into four groupings:

  •  Enlightened beings known as Nyorai (historical Buddha i.e. Shakyamuni, Amida Nyorai, Dainichi Nyorai, Yakushi Myorai).  .
  •  Boddhisattvas (bosatsu in Japanese), notably Kannon, Jizo and Miroku
  • Myoo (Fudo Myoo being the most common)
  • Protectors known as -ten, such as Bishamonten, Marisihiten, Benzaiten

In a reversal of what one might expect, the native kami were ranked below the imported deities in shinbutsu-shugyo syncretism.  The kami were already part of the spiritual landscape, so they had to be fitted in somehow.  Only by becoming Buddhist could they advance, one of the most famous cases being Hachiman bosatsu (a kami-cum-Bodhisattva).  No wonder that in Yoshida Kanetomo (1435-1511)  a counter-movement arose to reverse the order and assert kami as superior to Buddhas by dint of being Japanese.  The nationalist line was taken up by Motoori Morinaga and the Nativists of the eighteenth century.  It’s a legacy which is still being played out today.

Yoshida Shrine in Kyoto, which led the fight-back against Buddhist domination

Yoshida Shrine in Kyoto, which led the fight-back against Buddhist domination

Monkey business

Kukurizaru

Hanging monkeys at Yasaka Koshindo temple

This being the Year of the Monkey in the Chinese Zodiac, shrines and temples with monkey associations attract a lot of visitors and put on special events.  I recently visited one in Kyoto I hadn’t come across before, Yasaka Koshindo, famous for its ‘hanging monkey’ (kukurizaru).  It’s basically a small temple compound, dominated by a central hall filled with cloth hangings (see above).  These didn’t look like monkeys to me, but the receptionist explained that the monkey was hanging by all four limbs, with its head in the middle.

Kukurizaru

Four limbs tied up, with the monkey head in the middle

The temple belongs to the very syncretic Koshin faith, which was once a popular folk belief into which oral tradition was mixed with elements from Confucianism, Daoism, Buddhism and Shinto.  Apparently it was suppressed in Meiji times as a form of superstition by a modernising regime eager not to look ‘primitive’ to the eyes of the West.

According to the temple leaflet, Koshin-san has an angry face because he abhors bad people and wishes to help them become better.  Accordingly those who put their bad desire into the hanging monkey and leave it suspended will be relieved. Whenever a person feels desire coming on, they should remember the angry face of Koshin and control their desire like a hanging monkey whose hands and feet are tied together.  In other words, desire can be tied up and ended thanks to the beneficence of Koshin-san.

The temple also features on its incense holder the 3 Monkeys from Nikko who don’t speak, see or hear.  They can be seen in front of the Main Hall, in which I attended a gomaki ritual, clearly Shingon in style to judge from the dramatic hand gestures during the sutra chanting.  The altar figure was the blue-skinned Shomen Kongo, before whom prayer sticks were ritually burnt, each one bearing the name and age of a worshipper which rose up to the deity on a wave of smoke.

It was the first time for me to come across this once popular sect, but it felt fortuitous given the year.  Monkeys feature prominently in Kyoto, since the deity of sacred Mt Hiei is served by monkey messengers and there are several shrines with monkey guardians (see for instance Sarutahiko Jinja). Judging by Yasaka Koshindo, the animal provides inspiration to ‘hang on in there’ during the year ahead!

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To learn all about the religious significance of monkeys in Japan, including Koshin faith, see these pages in Mark Schumacher’s photo dictionary.

Gomaki ritual held in the main hall

Gomaki ritual held in the main hall

Tying up desire and leaving it suspended induces a sense of lightness

Tying up desire and leaving it suspended induces a sense of lightness

Incense holder held up by the "Three Monkeys," who are Mizaru (no see, 見ざる), Kikazaru (no hear, 聞かざる), and Iwazaru (no speak, 言わざる)

Incense holder held up by the Three Monkeys, who are Mizaru (no see), Kikazaru (no hear), and Iwazaru (no speak).

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For photos and explanation of a Koshin Shrine in Fukuoka, click here.

Zen and Shinto 5: Kodai-ji

The Tenmangu shrine at the Zen temple of Kodai-ji

The Tenmangu shrine at the Zen temple of Kodai-ji

Kodai-ji is one of Kyoto’s top tourist attractions, forever associated with Nene (1546-1624), principal wife of supremo Hideyoshi.  It’s known for the beauty of its gardens, the wealth of Important Cultural Assets, its connections with tea, but above all for the magical light-ups in spring (cherry blossom) and autumn (maple leaves) when dazzling images are reflected in shallow ponds.

Following the death of her husband, Nene became a nun and was given the honorary title  Kodai-in, from which the temple takes its name.  It won the patronage of the Tokugawa shogun, whose side Nene took in the dispute with her late husband’s son.  As a result the temple has a lavish touch, with sumptuous grounds and use of gold-embossed ‘Kodai-ji lacquer’. Though Nene belonged to the Soto sect, she willed her temple to Sanko Joeki, the Rinzai abbot of Kennin-ji.

Sacred rock

Sacred rock with omikuji fortune strips outside Kodai-ji

On a recent visit I was struck by a number of items in the vicinity.  One was a sacred rock with omikuji fortune strips but no explanation.  Do Chan temples in China venerate rocks, I couldn’t help wondering?

The rock lies near to a Tenmangu Shrine, standing outside the Zen compound but clearly an extension since it has a tiled Buddhist roof.  I guess this is another of those shrines not included in the 80,000 figure claimed by Jinja Honcho.  A noticeboard at the shrine says that Temma-Tenjin (posthumous name of Sugawara Michizane) was revered by Nene, and that if you walk around the hall three times your wish will be granted and misfortunes disappear.  (Sugawara is linked with Kodai-ji’s parent temple Kennin-ji, because while a priest named Enni Ben’en was studying there, he had a vision of Sugawara no Michizane who told him to go to China and study meditation.  When he returned, he founded Tofuku-ji.)

Interestingly for a kami shrine, candles and incense were on offer (one stick of each for ¥100).  The furnishings too were Buddhist style though with some typical Shinto elements, such as sakaki and salt-saké containers.

At the Tenmangu Shrine candles and incense sticks are on offer

At the Tenmangu Shrine, unusually for a kami, candles and incense sticks are on offer

As with other Tenjin shrines, the ema tablets show a preoccupation with passing exams, with ‘Dream’ (as in Ambition) the main theme.  At some point in modern times Tibetan-style ‘mani wheels’ were added.  These contain the Heart Sutra, and the visitor can earn merit by turning each one as they walk around the hall clockwise.  I wonder if this is a unique case of a kami shrine encircled by Buddhist prayer wheels?

Round the corner, on the main ‘Nene thoroughfare’, a subtemple called Gesshin-in houses a rather wonderful small shrine named Ko-Inari Daimyojin.  The simplest of affairs, it has a small hokora, stone lanterns with wooden cut-outs of foxes, and a rather cute enmusubi fox pairing that I haven’t come across elsewhere (see below).

Tenjin and Inari are two of the most common kami in Shinto, so it was interesting that they should feature so prominently at a Zen temple.  There is no resident priest at Kodai-ji, but it belongs to the Kennin-ji School of Rinzai Zen and priests from the monastery visit daily to carry out rituals, including refreshing the offerings etc at the kami shrines.  No doubt these practitioners of ‘no-mind’ are aware of the significance of the kagami (mirror) to which they make obeisance.  By removing the ‘ga‘ (ego) from the person reflected in the mirror, the ‘kagami’ becomes ‘kami’!

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A portrait of the deified Sugawara no Michizane (Tenjin-sama), sketched perhaps with a Zen touch

Ema at the Tenmangu Shrine have a Dream theme

Ema at the Tenmangu Shrine have a Dream theme

The Tenmangu ox outside the Zen temple of Kodai-ji

The Tenmangu ox outside the Zen temple precincts of Kodai-ji

The side of the Tenjin Shrine has a decidedly Buddhist look, with Kodai-ji emblem on the roof tiles and prayer wheels along the side

The side of the Tenjin Shrine has a decidedly Buddhist look, with Kodai-ji emblem on the roof tiles and prayer wheels along the side

Inari enmusubi ema – "love, love"

Inari enmusubi ema – “love, love”

Stone lantern with fox cut-out – an unusual touch

Stone lantern with fox cut-out – an unusual touch

Anime shrine (Okayama)

Okayama shrine a site of pilgrimage for ‘Tenchi Muyo!” anime fans

The stone stairway leading to the shrine buildings is “holy ground” for anime fans. (Takuya Nishie)

The stone stairway leading to the shrine buildings is “holy ground” for anime fans. (Takuya Nishie)

ASAGUCHI, Okayama Prefecture–With its 320-step stone stairway and centuries of history, Tarojinja shrine here appears to be just like any other place of Shinto worship. And that is how it should be. But it also attracts pilgrims from across Japan, especially anime fans drawn to the site featured in “Tenchi Muyo!”

The sci-fi anime series was released as a straight-to-video series in 1992 and then spawned sequels and spin-offs. The original creator, Masaki Kajishima, hails from the prefecture, so the names of the places and characters in the anime series are closely associated with Okayama Prefecture, including Funao and Washu in Kurashiki.

The story centers around a senior high school student, Tenchi Masaki. His grandfather is a Shinto priest at a shrine modeled after Tarojinja, which is said to have been built in 1601. The shrine grounds and buildings in the anime are almost identical to the existing structures. In some scenes, the protagonist is seen sweeping the grounds with a broom.

The “Tenchi-bako” box set up at the side of the worship hall can only be opened when a quiz question is answered correctly. (Takuya Nishie)

The “Tenchi-bako” box set up at the side of the worship hall can only be opened when a quiz question is answered correctly. (Takuya Nishie)

Tarojinja is known as one of the earliest precedents of “pilgrimages” by anime fans to locations featured in their favorite movies and shows. They started visiting the shrine in around 1994. There is even a box for visitors with a tag that reads “Tenchi-bako,” whose doors can be opened with a key when a quiz question is answered correctly. Placed inside is a “Tenchi Notebook,” in which fans can leave messages and draw illustrations. “I could finally come here,” one fan wrote, while another simply said: “I’m moved.”

Fans from Nara, Aichi, Chiba and Tochigi prefectures, as well as other points of the compass, are passionate in the way they express their adoration for the anime. When an offertory box was stolen in 2004, fans across the country joined hands to donate a new one. They also offered money when the shrine buildings underwent refurbishment.

For fans, their pilgrimage destination is a place where they can be a part of the anime. They cherish the work by taking care of their sanctuary. “I’m connected with Okayama (Prefecture) through the anime. For me, it is my second hometown,” Toshinori Tsugoshi, 40, a Tokyo-based member of a preservation society set up by fans, said.

“Tenchi Muyo!” fans also help maintain Tarojinja. “We can coexist with fans without problems,” said Naoaki Kuwano, 77, chief priest at Tarojinja. A new series of the anime is currently in the pipeline.

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Click for Youtube series with subtitles.

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tenchi-muyo

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Beans at the ready: Setsubun

Setsubun setYes, it’s that time of year again, and the shrines and temples will be open on Feb 3 (some on Feb 2) for bean throwing to dispel the demons that accumulate in the long dark nights of winter.

A demon appears in a kyogen play put on at Mibu Temple

What’s it all about?  Green Shinto has written of the occasion in previous years:
an explanation of why beans feature so prominently
– Wikipedia’s take and pictures of Kyoto events
– some interesting background facts
– a description of the Yasaka Shrine event
– a photo account of the Shimogamo event

A fresh take on the festival can be found at this site written by Shinto-Pagan Megan Manson.  Along with other thoughts on the subject, she links the tradition with the Celtic festival of Imbolc:

“Indeed, Imbolc and Setsubun have much in common, right down to their basic theme of purity and new beginnings. I have heard several Pagans mention that to them Imbolc feels more like “New Year” than Samhain or Yule, and the Japanese might agree. Setsubun does in fact have its origins in the old Lunar Calendar of Japan, in which New Year fell at the beginning of spring.”

The pioneering path that Megan is forging, in combining the spiritual traditions of East and West, shows the way forward in terms of connections and commonality.  In a global age, the recovery of ancient traditions in this way promises to give birth to a new kind of universalism that is rooted in a worldwide reverence for nature.  As we look forward to the promise of spring, Megan brings us hope for an interfaith future.

Maiko at Yasaka Jinja

At Yasaka Jinja you not only get a chance to catch good luck beans tossed by the maiko but to photo them too

Spring is in the air... and the plum blossom is out early this year.

Spring is in the air… and the plum blossom is out early this year.

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