Green Shinto has written of the meaning of Setsubun before, and covered the bean-throwing rite at various Kyoto shrines (see here). But we have never been to Matsuo Taisha for Setsubun, and this proved to be the most enjoyable of all. One reason was the stunning performance of Iwami kagura, Shinto inspired plays from Shimane based on Japanese mythology. Another reason was the local nature of the crowd and the generous amounts of packets in the bean-throwing. Hotly recommended for those looking for somewhere to go for next year!
Matsuo Taisha lies in the west of Kyoto, near to Arashiyama. It was founded by the Hata clan in 710, when the deity of Mt Matsuo was invited to watch over the clan. It took on extra significance after 794 when it became one of the guardian shrines of Heian-kyo (aka Kyoto). In the Middle Ages the deity became known for presiding over sake brewing, and the water of its Kamenoi spring is said to have a miraculous effect in protecting sake production.
The day’s events began with ritual purification, as arrows were fired off in different directions and spectators competing to catch them (this year’s lucky direction is west-south-west).Afterwards a demon took the stage in Iwami Kagura’s first playThe local lord giving orders to his finest warriorAfter quelling the demon in a titanic fight, the hero does a victory dance holding a sheath of his demon quelling arrows.The second play featured the terrible multi-headed Orochi serpent that in Kojiki mythology terrorised the Izumo region.The beautiful princess taken hostage by the Orochi monsterSusanoo no mikoto, half-brother of Amaterasu, finds a sword in the tail of the Orochi monster and prepares to do battle.The different parts of the Orochi struggled and writhed around the stage in acrobatic fashion, bringing gasps from the audience…… but finally Susanoo was able to slay it, despite being savagely bitten.
Amazingly the Orochi was packed afterwards into four neat little bags.
Later in the afternoon, when the two-hour Iwami kagura performance had finished, demons took over the stage.With their stunning masks and costumes, they provided a colourful and terrifying spectacle.Some of the poses were kabuki-like…… and the accompanying drumming drove them into a frenzy.At times it looked like the demons had taken over completely…
…and they mounted the shrine steps as if in victory…
…but out came the priests throwing beans to dispel them.Following the priests came parishioners in red caps like medieval scholars. The men were all born in the Year of the Rat. A short religious ceremony before the bean-throwing, in which the author was so involved grappling for beans he had no time or space for photographing.
The result was a handsome catch of three packets of beans and two mikan oranges, ensuring a fruitful year ahead.
Before departing the shrine, mothers lined up to hand over their babies to be terrified by a demon, a reminder that the festival is all about vigour and well-being. The louder the baby bawls, the better for its future.
